I decided to leave beautiful Sapa this evening, and head to majestic Nihn Bihn along the northern coast. Traveling to Ba Be Nat'l Park in a van full of cool Israeli's seems nice, but it is the opposite direction from where I really want to go, which is south along the coast towards Cambodia.
I received a heartfelt email from my dad asking me to come home sometime this year, because he and my family would love to see me. It goes without saying that I miss them tremendously, so I hope it doesn't hurt their hearts too much to read now that I have just completed a working holiday visa form for Australia. If I am approved I will change my return ticket hm, and I will leave for Australia on Sept. 1. My visa will last 1 yr where I can gain experience in my field of expertise and save $$$ for an intensive study in India. If I am not approved I will go with the flow, and it will be interesting to see what will surface next. Basically, I want to take advantage of being in this area of the world where I am learning and experiencing so many positive life changing things.
"Hold softly and let it go lightly."
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Friday, May 30, 2008
Sapa
After an overnight train journey from Hanoi to Lao Cai, I found a mini-van to Sapa with some people, and we headed through the foggy mts. for an hour before we arrived in this breathtaking scenery! I met a girl on the van named Karen(born in the USA and has lived in Isreal all her life). She and I decided to share a room together($3 a person). Let me just say that when you step out onto our balcony you get an eyeful of Giant mts with clouds settled in the valleys, irrigation shelves flooded with vegetables and rice(and leeches we later learned), and a small town that inihabits a small place on a flattened peak. In the evenings it's quite chilly! I have had the most fun with Karen, and find myself laughing non-stop in her company. She and I share the same goofy humor, which is rare. hahahaha! We had fun exploring the town and getting harassed to buy crafts by the tribal women. She and I befriended 3 Black Mung trbe women and were invited to their village the following day. What an honor!
We awoke early completely famished and rushed off to our favorite cafe. At 10 a.m. we met the ladies at our hotel, and began our 6 hr trek down a steep mt. At first there was Karen, our 3 tribal friends, and I, but as we walked from town many other tribal women left their work to join us and chit-chat to the villages. Next thing you know motorbikes are wizzing past us chuckling at Karen and I with our posse of 12 women in traditional attire carrying parisols and sauntering down a steep slope. She and I were learning about their cultures, because within the group there were women and children from 3 different tribes, and it was interesting to learn about there traditions. They loved hearing about our lives as well, and were surprised that I wasn't married and had no children yet. We saw 3 villages, and had lunch with the leader Grrr and her family. The lunch was vegetarian: Rice, bamboo root, morning glory, and cabbage. It was delicious, and we were famished! By the time lunch was over we bought a few crafts, and were given a lift back to Sapa on the back of their husband's motorbikes. That night Karen and I met a group of Israeli guys and we sat around listening to Hebrew music on their balcony and joked around for hrs. These guys are really hilarious!
This morning it was rainy and foggy. We rented morotbikes, only to turn around and get a refund. It was apparently not the day to zip out to the waterfalls. That's ok. When the rain finally stopped Karen and I walked down a mt. to walk near the rice fields and explore the valley. The cement path was steep and slippery. Karen fell and slid all the way down the path on her butt. She wasn't hurt, just very muddy. We spent the whole afternoon laughing hysterically. My stomach and face still hurt from it. You should have seen us trying to climb up the slippery path! Lets just say we were both on all fours. We were also speculating what Meatloaf wouldn't do for love....
Karen left by bus this evening to take a bus to China, and I was invited by the Israeli boys to celebrate a jewish holiday with them(not sure which one), and discuss plans to rent a mini-van to venture out to Ba Be Nat'l park and then circle down to Hanoi where I will take a bus to Nihn Bihn. I'm not sure if this plan is realistic yet. I wanted to do the motorcycle tour, but unfortunately it's officially the rainy season, so my plans have to be flexible now.
I just have to say that everyone tried to talk me out of coming to Vietnam, because they complained about the people, but I find the people to be beautiful and giving. Sure there's scam-artists, but they're everywhere in the world. In Asia it's more in your face, so with that awareness you can navigate through it with eyes open. I really am enjoying my time here in this culture overall. My only concern is the expensive prices for transportation and accomidation is most places, so I need to begin my journey south to Cambodia soon. I don't think I will stay in this country for an entire month, and I will skip some sites that I'm not truly excited about.
Thank you to all of you for sending me warm Birthday wishes from home.
We awoke early completely famished and rushed off to our favorite cafe. At 10 a.m. we met the ladies at our hotel, and began our 6 hr trek down a steep mt. At first there was Karen, our 3 tribal friends, and I, but as we walked from town many other tribal women left their work to join us and chit-chat to the villages. Next thing you know motorbikes are wizzing past us chuckling at Karen and I with our posse of 12 women in traditional attire carrying parisols and sauntering down a steep slope. She and I were learning about their cultures, because within the group there were women and children from 3 different tribes, and it was interesting to learn about there traditions. They loved hearing about our lives as well, and were surprised that I wasn't married and had no children yet. We saw 3 villages, and had lunch with the leader Grrr and her family. The lunch was vegetarian: Rice, bamboo root, morning glory, and cabbage. It was delicious, and we were famished! By the time lunch was over we bought a few crafts, and were given a lift back to Sapa on the back of their husband's motorbikes. That night Karen and I met a group of Israeli guys and we sat around listening to Hebrew music on their balcony and joked around for hrs. These guys are really hilarious!
This morning it was rainy and foggy. We rented morotbikes, only to turn around and get a refund. It was apparently not the day to zip out to the waterfalls. That's ok. When the rain finally stopped Karen and I walked down a mt. to walk near the rice fields and explore the valley. The cement path was steep and slippery. Karen fell and slid all the way down the path on her butt. She wasn't hurt, just very muddy. We spent the whole afternoon laughing hysterically. My stomach and face still hurt from it. You should have seen us trying to climb up the slippery path! Lets just say we were both on all fours. We were also speculating what Meatloaf wouldn't do for love....
Karen left by bus this evening to take a bus to China, and I was invited by the Israeli boys to celebrate a jewish holiday with them(not sure which one), and discuss plans to rent a mini-van to venture out to Ba Be Nat'l park and then circle down to Hanoi where I will take a bus to Nihn Bihn. I'm not sure if this plan is realistic yet. I wanted to do the motorcycle tour, but unfortunately it's officially the rainy season, so my plans have to be flexible now.
I just have to say that everyone tried to talk me out of coming to Vietnam, because they complained about the people, but I find the people to be beautiful and giving. Sure there's scam-artists, but they're everywhere in the world. In Asia it's more in your face, so with that awareness you can navigate through it with eyes open. I really am enjoying my time here in this culture overall. My only concern is the expensive prices for transportation and accomidation is most places, so I need to begin my journey south to Cambodia soon. I don't think I will stay in this country for an entire month, and I will skip some sites that I'm not truly excited about.
Thank you to all of you for sending me warm Birthday wishes from home.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Good morning Vietnam
The bus was loaded full of boxes and bags of rice on top, inside, and underneath. It was miserably packed! I took a seat, and a weird Lao guy sat next to me on an uncomfortable, hard, cramped bench-seat. Outside my window a cute young Lao guy started talking to me, and gave me his passport photo, and then asked for one of mine. hahaha! Too funny. It's in my wallet.
We took off, with half the passengers sitting on the floor. We departed at 6:30 p.m. Throughout the journey I had to keep the Lao guy from trying to put his hard on my leg, and at one point I saw his hand falling through the air towards my crotch. I hit it away, glared at him, but he was unfazed. I had nowhere I could move to, so I didn't sleep. I did, however, use my elbow a lot to keep him away! At 2 a.m. the bus stoped, and everyone was kicked off at this weird little restaurant at the border town of Lao Bao, Laos/Vietnam. Thank god I didn't have to sit by the freak, but... where was I, and what was going on? No one could tell me. I changed my kip and dollars to Dong, and luckily I pre-researched the exchange, because 'surprise surprise' they tried to rip me off. This will happen simply because I'm white. Anyway, things were fine, and the girl was impressed when I corrected her, and she obliged to the corrected amount. The owner was frustratingly persistent that I should pay him to receive a stamp. What stamp? I was confused. I told him I didn't need a stamp because I had my visa, but he proceeded to argue with me on and off throughout the night. He even had all the passengers trying to convince me that I needed this stamp. At 7 a.m. the border to Vietnam opened, and I walked through with no problem, and did not need this stamp. I re-boarded the bus, and chose someone different to sit next to, and when I awoke a couple hrs. later I was in Dong Ha(Central Vietnam. I took a motorcycle taxi to a travel agent to book my sleeper bus to Hanoi(10 hrs. north), which I learned didn't leave until 7 p.m. that night. The guy was really nice, and liked hanging out with me, so when he gave me a phenomenal price($30usd) for a private war tour for the entire afternoon I couldn't refuse. My guide's name was Que, and he took me to the war museums and arranged for me private tours at each location with his favorite guides, all of whom were extremely knowledgeable and spoke excellent English. He took me to the barracks, cemetery, blood bowl, river of sorrow, Ben Xiah(Ben Ha), the central tunnels in Vihn, and then after a day of education with him, we went out for fish soup and beer on the beach. He helped me on the bus, asked me to return on my way south, and sent me on my way with snacks and water(all free). I had just arrived and had already I made a kind and thoughtful Vietnamese friend.
The sleeper bus was a luxury that I had not experienced thus far on my travels. When I arrived in Hanoi(The city of the soaring dragons) I tagged along with 2 other travelers to a hostel in the old quarter. On the cab ride to the hostel I was amused to see the entire city in the streets and sidewalks to do aerobics. How funny! :D Old men doing pelvic thrusts, women gyrating, and everyone was really giving it their all. It was 5:30 a.m., and the streets were alive, and the people were exercising with delight. The lake was surrounded with red and purple trees and in the distance I saw a beautiful curved red Asian bridge. Immediately I thought, I really like this city. I like Vietnam. It is so different and interesting! :)
After my needed shower I made a friend at breakfast. His name is Drew and he's a US military attorney living in Korea. He's my age, and very nice. We explored the city together, he accompanied me while I called my family on skype, found a salon and got a proper hair cut(chopping all of my hair off for real!), then he talked me into cruising up to Halong Bay with him and some new friends the next day(for 2 days, 1 night on the boat), and that night 10 people joined me for dinner to celebrate my b-day followed by drinks on the roof-top bar.
The next morning we left by bus, and took a 2 hr drive to the pier. We boarded a beautiful wooden ship. I shared a room with a cool Irish girl named Deidre. That afternoon we went spelunking in a huge cave with the most unique rock formations I've ever seen. Rhiannon would have loved it, being a geologist. Then we went kayaking in one of the most spectacular places I've ever been. This place is why scenic-loving people come to Vietnam! After kayaking we jumped off the boat into the water and went swimming under the glow of a gorgeous sunset. The scenery looked like something out of Jurassic park, the water was clean with a heavenly temperature, and everyone of the boat got along great. We really had a lot of fun together!
The food was delicious, and everyone kept remarking that they were having the best time! :D
I didn't want it to end, but I returned to Hanoi today. I'll explore Hanoi another day, and then I'm taking the train north towards China to trek, bike, and explore by motorcycle.
We took off, with half the passengers sitting on the floor. We departed at 6:30 p.m. Throughout the journey I had to keep the Lao guy from trying to put his hard on my leg, and at one point I saw his hand falling through the air towards my crotch. I hit it away, glared at him, but he was unfazed. I had nowhere I could move to, so I didn't sleep. I did, however, use my elbow a lot to keep him away! At 2 a.m. the bus stoped, and everyone was kicked off at this weird little restaurant at the border town of Lao Bao, Laos/Vietnam. Thank god I didn't have to sit by the freak, but... where was I, and what was going on? No one could tell me. I changed my kip and dollars to Dong, and luckily I pre-researched the exchange, because 'surprise surprise' they tried to rip me off. This will happen simply because I'm white. Anyway, things were fine, and the girl was impressed when I corrected her, and she obliged to the corrected amount. The owner was frustratingly persistent that I should pay him to receive a stamp. What stamp? I was confused. I told him I didn't need a stamp because I had my visa, but he proceeded to argue with me on and off throughout the night. He even had all the passengers trying to convince me that I needed this stamp. At 7 a.m. the border to Vietnam opened, and I walked through with no problem, and did not need this stamp. I re-boarded the bus, and chose someone different to sit next to, and when I awoke a couple hrs. later I was in Dong Ha(Central Vietnam. I took a motorcycle taxi to a travel agent to book my sleeper bus to Hanoi(10 hrs. north), which I learned didn't leave until 7 p.m. that night. The guy was really nice, and liked hanging out with me, so when he gave me a phenomenal price($30usd) for a private war tour for the entire afternoon I couldn't refuse. My guide's name was Que, and he took me to the war museums and arranged for me private tours at each location with his favorite guides, all of whom were extremely knowledgeable and spoke excellent English. He took me to the barracks, cemetery, blood bowl, river of sorrow, Ben Xiah(Ben Ha), the central tunnels in Vihn, and then after a day of education with him, we went out for fish soup and beer on the beach. He helped me on the bus, asked me to return on my way south, and sent me on my way with snacks and water(all free). I had just arrived and had already I made a kind and thoughtful Vietnamese friend.
The sleeper bus was a luxury that I had not experienced thus far on my travels. When I arrived in Hanoi(The city of the soaring dragons) I tagged along with 2 other travelers to a hostel in the old quarter. On the cab ride to the hostel I was amused to see the entire city in the streets and sidewalks to do aerobics. How funny! :D Old men doing pelvic thrusts, women gyrating, and everyone was really giving it their all. It was 5:30 a.m., and the streets were alive, and the people were exercising with delight. The lake was surrounded with red and purple trees and in the distance I saw a beautiful curved red Asian bridge. Immediately I thought, I really like this city. I like Vietnam. It is so different and interesting! :)
After my needed shower I made a friend at breakfast. His name is Drew and he's a US military attorney living in Korea. He's my age, and very nice. We explored the city together, he accompanied me while I called my family on skype, found a salon and got a proper hair cut(chopping all of my hair off for real!), then he talked me into cruising up to Halong Bay with him and some new friends the next day(for 2 days, 1 night on the boat), and that night 10 people joined me for dinner to celebrate my b-day followed by drinks on the roof-top bar.
The next morning we left by bus, and took a 2 hr drive to the pier. We boarded a beautiful wooden ship. I shared a room with a cool Irish girl named Deidre. That afternoon we went spelunking in a huge cave with the most unique rock formations I've ever seen. Rhiannon would have loved it, being a geologist. Then we went kayaking in one of the most spectacular places I've ever been. This place is why scenic-loving people come to Vietnam! After kayaking we jumped off the boat into the water and went swimming under the glow of a gorgeous sunset. The scenery looked like something out of Jurassic park, the water was clean with a heavenly temperature, and everyone of the boat got along great. We really had a lot of fun together!
The food was delicious, and everyone kept remarking that they were having the best time! :D
I didn't want it to end, but I returned to Hanoi today. I'll explore Hanoi another day, and then I'm taking the train north towards China to trek, bike, and explore by motorcycle.
The 4,000 islands
Nha Tran is where we were dropped off by the bus, and all of the passengers carefully climbed into a large motorized covered canoe with all our over-sized heavy backpacks, so we could commute to the islands. There were many stops, because everyone wanted to go somewhere different. I decided to take the advice of a lovely French girl named Meliny that I met in Luang Prabang, and head to Don Det. Elina joined me. We were careful not to plummet into the water when we exited the canoe and stepped foot on a magnificent and primitive jungle island. We weren't sure which way to go, but I knew I wanted to stay at her bungalow recommendation: Paradise Bungalows.
We finally found it 10 mins. later and were greeted by the owners, and some fun and boisterous guests, "You gotta stay here, Dam is the best cook, and this place is amazing!" Well, OK! :D
There were 5 private stilted bungalows situated over the Mekong River with the most impressive views, and our own hammocks on our decks. Elina and I had our own bungalows with a suite setup, which was fun. The cost was 15,000 kip a day($1.80). Yeah, no kidding! There is no electricity on the island until 6p.m. and lasts until 10 p.m., which is when everything closes. The 3 guests who we initially met told us about their run-ins with 2 poisonous cobras on the trail near my bungalow, and the owner Dam told us if we see one that we need to kill it. Wow! A little scary! I did end up seeing 2 snakes myself! The island was buzzing with life: lots of bugs, snakes, water buffalo, goats, massive spiders, geckos..., and what I found interesting was that all the life truly does live in harmony together: The chickens, cats, dogs, and people. Children have the most amazing freedom and are so fortunate to be raised in this environment. I saw 2 boys every morning take their Dad's motorized canoe out on the Mekong River and shark through the islands like pirates, and sometimes they would whip out a big stick and attack the bushes, or visit their fort on the private island opposite my bungalow. I also saw them fish and walk around barefoot carrying a lizard or what-not. The children made me smile when their high pitch chipmunk voices would excitedly be discussing something amongst themselves on the dirt road behind my bungalow. I would hear them from my bed or hammock and think: These kids are so happy and free. They work hard, and they play hard. This is the life!
My days were spend exploring the waterfalls on the islands, crossing the bridge to the other island, eating good food, reading, chillin in the hammock, making friends, walking around appreciating the rice fields and wildlife, etc...I ran into my friend Clara, Paco, and befriended Fatia(French), so in the evenings we would go to the rasta bar to mingle, play charades with friends by candlelight, or just stay up taking on my balcony enjoying the view. The view was gorgeous! Every night it would rain a little, and then the bugs would buzz us to sleep.
One afternoon after the rain, Clara, Elina, and I were enjoying a delicious lunch on the river when I exclaimed that the heat was dreadful and I was sick of my hair. I said for the last 3 months I've wanted to chop it all off. Clara said, "Well, why don't you..?" I looked at her, then Elina, and decided that I had no reason not to. "Lets do it."
We all ran over to my balcony, and Clara cut my hair to the top of my neck. It was a pretty cute bob, but needed touch up when I got off the island. When I got dressed that evening to head towards the town a beautiful Israeli man walked past me and gave my a smile that melted me, and that smile made me feel beautiful with my short hair. It's funny how a single smile from a man can make you feel confident. ;)
We had a few days left on the island, but ran out of money, and found out there was no ATM on the island, and we had to take the canoe to Nha Tran, and a local bus all the way back to Pakse to pull out money to pay our bill. We made it to the bus stop just fine. No problems, but found out we were 9 km outside of town. The tuk tuk drivers swarmed around us like blood thirsty mosquitoes trying to over charge us to take us to town. It's understandable though. We went with the wrong guy apparently, because he drove us to town, took our money, and then we found out we still had to travel an additional 2 km before we were at the ATM. I stood there looking at him with disgust when he tried to charge us another 20,000 kip a piece to take us to where he originally said he would take us. He took advantage us, and totally screwed us over. We began the miserable walk through the blaring sun and heat towards Pakse, but were still lost. Noone spoke English to assist us, and I was still irritated by that little Laos tuk tuk driver, who at that moment drove up next to us again and tried to negotiate a fare. What nerve! I told him to Fuck off, and we kept walking. Yes, I can be very stubborn, and I didn't need to handle the situation that way. I realized later I was hungry, and that fueled my anger. We approached a college and walked towards a table of young giggly Laos girls. They pulled up their motorbikes and took us to the bank, and wanted nothing in return. What a blessing! :)
After lunch and bumming around for a few hrs. we paid a tuk tuk driver to take us back to the bus station. They tried to rip us off, but we called them out, and told them what we would pay. The agreed, and laughed.
After more people arrived they loaded us all up in a large tuk tuk-van, but then we sat there for 1 1/2 hrs while they drank beer. Finally we left! It rained on us, and it was cold. I sat next to an old lady who chewed the infamous beetle-nut, and her teeth were stained black. It's a painkiller for toothaches and other things. She would spit out red dye that looked like blood over the side of the moving bus. The Laos love to pick their noses and spit. :o
The ride should have lasted 2 1/2 hrs like before, but was dragged out for 4 hrs. by dropping off and picking up people and produce, dead chickens, rice, etc. In the end it was only Elina and I on the bus. It was dark, and the driver stopped in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road telling us to get out, because we could walk to the destination, that it was up ahead. Elina said: "Then drive a bit farther and take us there!" He grumbled and started driving on. He drove another 35 mins before we arrived back in Nha Tran! What a jerk! When we arrived the town was empty because everyone was in the temple celebrating Buddha's b-day. When the driver wanted to collect the money from us he tried to charge us more than what we agreed upon. I made a scene by telling him that he was lucky to get a dime because he tried to abandon us in the middle of nowhere! In the end we paid the agreed upon initial price, took gum as a peace offering, and tried to find a canoe ride back to Don Det.
There were two vulture kids trying to take advantage of our situation by raping us with prices. I was still irritated, but mostly hurt and emotional, so I asked Elina if we could walk by the river and look for someone else. We sat, and I calmed down. I saw a man on our way back up the hill to town, and asked him for a ride on canoe to the island. He didn't haver a canoe, but walked up the hill with us and then disappeared when the kids pounced us. Just then when the 4 of us stood with our arms crossed in a stubborn stand-off a man on a motorcycle pulled up, offered us a ridiculously low price to take us to the island, and we gratefully followed him to his boat, and rode in peaceful silence under the moon light to Don Det. Out of nowhere Elina asked me if today reminded me of the Bhagavad Gita(She is aware that I've read it 5 times so far on my trip), and at first I said no, but then realized it was a definite Yes, and I felt humbled.
When we paid him I wanted him to have my bracelet as a symbol of gratitude, which he graciously accepted.
The next day I bought my bus fare to Vietnam. I spent that day relaxing. That night I met 2 Chilean girls and we chilled on my balcony with Clara. One girl told me how she contracted a parasitic worm in her foot while in Cambodia. She showed me her foot, and sure enough down the length of her big toe and curled up her second toe was the scar of a giant worm. It was killed with dry Ice and removed by a small incision and tweezers. When she stood to leave she fainted and smacked her face on a chair. We were able to bring her back to consciousness, and she was ok just low in electrolytes. Yes, it's really that hot!
Crazy things happen.
On my last day Elina and I rented bikes and rode around exploring the island on new undiscovered paths. We stopped for lunch, got rained in for a bit, but then rode towards our bungalow and met a cool guy with a handlebar mustache from the UK. The 3 of us hitched a ride to a small private island, packed a snack and a few beers, a guitar, and spent the afternoon singing and playing the guitar on our own private island. By the time we got to our sandwiches they were covered in ants in sections, but what we couldn't wipe off we ate. The ants tasted good. hahaha!
That night was my last night, and I enjoyed it with my friends on my balcony with the immaculate view.
I said goodbye to Elina after breakfast, and began my journey into Vietnam.
We finally found it 10 mins. later and were greeted by the owners, and some fun and boisterous guests, "You gotta stay here, Dam is the best cook, and this place is amazing!" Well, OK! :D
There were 5 private stilted bungalows situated over the Mekong River with the most impressive views, and our own hammocks on our decks. Elina and I had our own bungalows with a suite setup, which was fun. The cost was 15,000 kip a day($1.80). Yeah, no kidding! There is no electricity on the island until 6p.m. and lasts until 10 p.m., which is when everything closes. The 3 guests who we initially met told us about their run-ins with 2 poisonous cobras on the trail near my bungalow, and the owner Dam told us if we see one that we need to kill it. Wow! A little scary! I did end up seeing 2 snakes myself! The island was buzzing with life: lots of bugs, snakes, water buffalo, goats, massive spiders, geckos..., and what I found interesting was that all the life truly does live in harmony together: The chickens, cats, dogs, and people. Children have the most amazing freedom and are so fortunate to be raised in this environment. I saw 2 boys every morning take their Dad's motorized canoe out on the Mekong River and shark through the islands like pirates, and sometimes they would whip out a big stick and attack the bushes, or visit their fort on the private island opposite my bungalow. I also saw them fish and walk around barefoot carrying a lizard or what-not. The children made me smile when their high pitch chipmunk voices would excitedly be discussing something amongst themselves on the dirt road behind my bungalow. I would hear them from my bed or hammock and think: These kids are so happy and free. They work hard, and they play hard. This is the life!
My days were spend exploring the waterfalls on the islands, crossing the bridge to the other island, eating good food, reading, chillin in the hammock, making friends, walking around appreciating the rice fields and wildlife, etc...I ran into my friend Clara, Paco, and befriended Fatia(French), so in the evenings we would go to the rasta bar to mingle, play charades with friends by candlelight, or just stay up taking on my balcony enjoying the view. The view was gorgeous! Every night it would rain a little, and then the bugs would buzz us to sleep.
One afternoon after the rain, Clara, Elina, and I were enjoying a delicious lunch on the river when I exclaimed that the heat was dreadful and I was sick of my hair. I said for the last 3 months I've wanted to chop it all off. Clara said, "Well, why don't you..?" I looked at her, then Elina, and decided that I had no reason not to. "Lets do it."
We all ran over to my balcony, and Clara cut my hair to the top of my neck. It was a pretty cute bob, but needed touch up when I got off the island. When I got dressed that evening to head towards the town a beautiful Israeli man walked past me and gave my a smile that melted me, and that smile made me feel beautiful with my short hair. It's funny how a single smile from a man can make you feel confident. ;)
We had a few days left on the island, but ran out of money, and found out there was no ATM on the island, and we had to take the canoe to Nha Tran, and a local bus all the way back to Pakse to pull out money to pay our bill. We made it to the bus stop just fine. No problems, but found out we were 9 km outside of town. The tuk tuk drivers swarmed around us like blood thirsty mosquitoes trying to over charge us to take us to town. It's understandable though. We went with the wrong guy apparently, because he drove us to town, took our money, and then we found out we still had to travel an additional 2 km before we were at the ATM. I stood there looking at him with disgust when he tried to charge us another 20,000 kip a piece to take us to where he originally said he would take us. He took advantage us, and totally screwed us over. We began the miserable walk through the blaring sun and heat towards Pakse, but were still lost. Noone spoke English to assist us, and I was still irritated by that little Laos tuk tuk driver, who at that moment drove up next to us again and tried to negotiate a fare. What nerve! I told him to Fuck off, and we kept walking. Yes, I can be very stubborn, and I didn't need to handle the situation that way. I realized later I was hungry, and that fueled my anger. We approached a college and walked towards a table of young giggly Laos girls. They pulled up their motorbikes and took us to the bank, and wanted nothing in return. What a blessing! :)
After lunch and bumming around for a few hrs. we paid a tuk tuk driver to take us back to the bus station. They tried to rip us off, but we called them out, and told them what we would pay. The agreed, and laughed.
After more people arrived they loaded us all up in a large tuk tuk-van, but then we sat there for 1 1/2 hrs while they drank beer. Finally we left! It rained on us, and it was cold. I sat next to an old lady who chewed the infamous beetle-nut, and her teeth were stained black. It's a painkiller for toothaches and other things. She would spit out red dye that looked like blood over the side of the moving bus. The Laos love to pick their noses and spit. :o
The ride should have lasted 2 1/2 hrs like before, but was dragged out for 4 hrs. by dropping off and picking up people and produce, dead chickens, rice, etc. In the end it was only Elina and I on the bus. It was dark, and the driver stopped in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road telling us to get out, because we could walk to the destination, that it was up ahead. Elina said: "Then drive a bit farther and take us there!" He grumbled and started driving on. He drove another 35 mins before we arrived back in Nha Tran! What a jerk! When we arrived the town was empty because everyone was in the temple celebrating Buddha's b-day. When the driver wanted to collect the money from us he tried to charge us more than what we agreed upon. I made a scene by telling him that he was lucky to get a dime because he tried to abandon us in the middle of nowhere! In the end we paid the agreed upon initial price, took gum as a peace offering, and tried to find a canoe ride back to Don Det.
There were two vulture kids trying to take advantage of our situation by raping us with prices. I was still irritated, but mostly hurt and emotional, so I asked Elina if we could walk by the river and look for someone else. We sat, and I calmed down. I saw a man on our way back up the hill to town, and asked him for a ride on canoe to the island. He didn't haver a canoe, but walked up the hill with us and then disappeared when the kids pounced us. Just then when the 4 of us stood with our arms crossed in a stubborn stand-off a man on a motorcycle pulled up, offered us a ridiculously low price to take us to the island, and we gratefully followed him to his boat, and rode in peaceful silence under the moon light to Don Det. Out of nowhere Elina asked me if today reminded me of the Bhagavad Gita(She is aware that I've read it 5 times so far on my trip), and at first I said no, but then realized it was a definite Yes, and I felt humbled.
When we paid him I wanted him to have my bracelet as a symbol of gratitude, which he graciously accepted.
The next day I bought my bus fare to Vietnam. I spent that day relaxing. That night I met 2 Chilean girls and we chilled on my balcony with Clara. One girl told me how she contracted a parasitic worm in her foot while in Cambodia. She showed me her foot, and sure enough down the length of her big toe and curled up her second toe was the scar of a giant worm. It was killed with dry Ice and removed by a small incision and tweezers. When she stood to leave she fainted and smacked her face on a chair. We were able to bring her back to consciousness, and she was ok just low in electrolytes. Yes, it's really that hot!
Crazy things happen.
On my last day Elina and I rented bikes and rode around exploring the island on new undiscovered paths. We stopped for lunch, got rained in for a bit, but then rode towards our bungalow and met a cool guy with a handlebar mustache from the UK. The 3 of us hitched a ride to a small private island, packed a snack and a few beers, a guitar, and spent the afternoon singing and playing the guitar on our own private island. By the time we got to our sandwiches they were covered in ants in sections, but what we couldn't wipe off we ate. The ants tasted good. hahaha!
That night was my last night, and I enjoyed it with my friends on my balcony with the immaculate view.
I said goodbye to Elina after breakfast, and began my journey into Vietnam.
Pakse
After a 10hr. bus ride I arrived at 6 a.m. with my friend Elina to Pakse. She and I negotiated a tuk tuk to one of the few guesthouses in this small boring little town: Sabaidee 2(not #1, haha!), and set ourselves up in the dorm room for the night. The guesthouse was filled with very interesting and upbeat people. Elina and I rented a manual motorbike which I drove and printed a map to the jungle temple with the intention of having a lovely ride through the mountains, seeing some waterfalls on the way, having a picnic, and exploring this Angkor Wat-like temple as a day trip. We ended up getting a little lost. After I turned around and we rode in the right direction, following the advice of a local we met on a tractor, the weather took a gloomy turn for the worst and began beating down on us with persistence. Luckily I was able to see a shelter off the side of the road through the wall of rain, and we pulled off to sit out the storm. We saw a guy from our guesthouse ride past, so we waved at him, and he pulled off the slippery rain-blinding road(almost getting hit by a truck), and sat out the storm with us for the next couple hrs. Our shelter was leaky and we were getting cold, so I did a little patch work with my duct tape on the shelter so we could try to keep as dry as possible, and we patiently waited, appreciating the gorgeous views around us. Despite the circumstances we were all good humored. Once the rain stopped we took off again. Not long after we were on the road the rain started again... I was so cold, and the rain was hitting my body like pins in my flesh, so we pulled off to every shack we saw asking the locals if they served food. None of them did, nor did they speak English. My chills turned into shivers, and we were offered fire-water to warm our bellies(rice wine). It was almost dark and getting colder. We weren't very welcomed in this small town, and had no choice but to venture fw to Pakse. I found a pancho, which did little since I was soaked to the bone, but I drove the last 35 km and eventually got us back safely. That night after a hot shower and dinner we sat around drinking beers and singing songs on the guitar with all of the Sabaidee guests until early morning. It was a lovely night. At 3 p.m. the next day the bus came to pick us up to take us to the 4,000 islands. Yay! We were on our way.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Vientiane
The capital of Laos is a small and boring version of BKK. However, the people are more personable and attractive. On my first day in town Elina and I found some bicycles, met some friends, and took a long herbal steam sauna with monks. We were in a temple in the middle of the jungle inside of a bamboo hut on stilts. We were served delicious hot tea and undressed to a sarong as we dipped in and out of the comfort of the bamboo steam room. The steam entered the room through some holes in the floor, so you had to keep your feet on an elevated plank. At first when you enter you can't see anything! Then your eyes adjust and you sweat and sloth of dead skin with several sweaty bodies around you. You can't see the person next to you on the bench, but the experience is very relaxing. We didn't realize we were in a steam bath with about 8 monks until we all showered with Mekong water from a giant tub outside, and they dressed in their attire afterwards.
We were so famished after a day of biking and sauna, so we went to a lovely cafe for dinner. A very cool man named Michael from Nigeria approached me and ate his dinner with us, and his friend Jo joined us. We made plans to meet up and go dancing an hour later. Michael now lives in the UK where he is a professional Soccer player, but he's in the warm climate recuperating his injured knee. Jo and Michael ended up taking us to THE premier club in Vientiane! We had so much fun dancing the night away with our new African friends in the posh settings of this club. The music wasn't very good, but the atmosphere was extremely entertaining with all the zany locals, old Pharangs and young girls, the Lao gay men bumping and grinding on the dance floor, and the random guy who puked on 6 people as he was dragged to the bathroom by the bouncers. I was thoroughly amused, and told Michael so. He told me I was charismatic and asked to accompany Elina and I to the Buddha park, so we made a group date before Elina and I biked back to our guesthouse in our clubbing clothes on our beach cruisers. Elina was more than half drunk.
Today Michael met Elina and I at the cafe and we bumped into our Finnish friend Vox and our Polish/French friend Pat. We all negotiated a fair price with the tuk tuk and cruised out to the Buddha park together. This park was created in 1958 by a yogi-priest-shaman who combined Hindi-Buddhist iconography into a cosmic park. To say the least it was odd yet magical. We enjoyed exploring all the statues. Michael bought me a beautiful silk Lao scarf that looked African, because it was designed in patterns mostly orange, red, black, and green. We met 20 Lao Soccer players who just finished a championship game, and were celebrating with lots of beer, so when they invited us to join them we couldn't say no. After several beers they bet Michael that their best player could win a best out of three kick-off match. The bet was that the loser had to buy the winner three large BeerLaos. This was the most exciting part of the day! What was wonderful is that Michael won! He schooled the Lao guy, and we had fun cheering him on. Much later we took a tuk tuk back to Vientiane.
Tomorrow evening I depart this city on a 10 hr. bus ride to the south: Paske, where I will slowly make my way through the 4,000 islands in the south of Laos over the next 2 weeks.
I previously mentioned that Thailand is the land of a thousand scents, well...
Lao is the Land of a million butterflies. You couldn't imagine how gorgeous this country is, nor could you know how in love with this country I am. :)
We were so famished after a day of biking and sauna, so we went to a lovely cafe for dinner. A very cool man named Michael from Nigeria approached me and ate his dinner with us, and his friend Jo joined us. We made plans to meet up and go dancing an hour later. Michael now lives in the UK where he is a professional Soccer player, but he's in the warm climate recuperating his injured knee. Jo and Michael ended up taking us to THE premier club in Vientiane! We had so much fun dancing the night away with our new African friends in the posh settings of this club. The music wasn't very good, but the atmosphere was extremely entertaining with all the zany locals, old Pharangs and young girls, the Lao gay men bumping and grinding on the dance floor, and the random guy who puked on 6 people as he was dragged to the bathroom by the bouncers. I was thoroughly amused, and told Michael so. He told me I was charismatic and asked to accompany Elina and I to the Buddha park, so we made a group date before Elina and I biked back to our guesthouse in our clubbing clothes on our beach cruisers. Elina was more than half drunk.
Today Michael met Elina and I at the cafe and we bumped into our Finnish friend Vox and our Polish/French friend Pat. We all negotiated a fair price with the tuk tuk and cruised out to the Buddha park together. This park was created in 1958 by a yogi-priest-shaman who combined Hindi-Buddhist iconography into a cosmic park. To say the least it was odd yet magical. We enjoyed exploring all the statues. Michael bought me a beautiful silk Lao scarf that looked African, because it was designed in patterns mostly orange, red, black, and green. We met 20 Lao Soccer players who just finished a championship game, and were celebrating with lots of beer, so when they invited us to join them we couldn't say no. After several beers they bet Michael that their best player could win a best out of three kick-off match. The bet was that the loser had to buy the winner three large BeerLaos. This was the most exciting part of the day! What was wonderful is that Michael won! He schooled the Lao guy, and we had fun cheering him on. Much later we took a tuk tuk back to Vientiane.
Tomorrow evening I depart this city on a 10 hr. bus ride to the south: Paske, where I will slowly make my way through the 4,000 islands in the south of Laos over the next 2 weeks.
I previously mentioned that Thailand is the land of a thousand scents, well...
Lao is the Land of a million butterflies. You couldn't imagine how gorgeous this country is, nor could you know how in love with this country I am. :)
Friday, May 9, 2008
recent adventures in Vang Vieng
After I stepped off the bus onto Vang Vieng soil. A guy by the name of David clung onto me. He excitedly asked: "So, where should we look for a guesthouse?" Then once we found a place, he said: "Do you wanna share a room?" He's harmless, so why not? I need to keep costs low, so I can conserve my funds. That first night as we sat on our beds talking he excused himself to go to the bathroom, and then stuck his head out of the bathroom to say "keep talking to me while I use the bathroom, because I'm enjoying this conversation," but he didn't close the door, and I started to hear bathroom noises (ker-plunks etc..). I was completely grossed out, and told him to close the door next time as I proceeded to slam the door in disgust. GROSS! When he finally emerged he didn't even blink an eye when he asked if I wanted to accompany him for dinner.
After dinner we walked the town. People were enjoying the 'pizza shops,' which are drug shops. They add ganja or mushrooms to your food if you order off the 'special menu.' I was also amused by everyone hypnotized by Friends episodes playing on the t.v.'s at several of the restaurants. These people are on vacation in the middle of one of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen to watch this stupid show? And do the Lao people think this is the lifestyle of the majority? I hope not.
David and I went to a bar where I met my new good Canadian friend Annie. She was helping out at the bar, serving me free drinks, and I stayed there talking to her until the bars closed at midnight. David thankfully left. Did I mention that he will stop in his tracks while in the middle of a conversation or while walking with me to write in his journal. Yeah... he's odd.
Anyways, the next day Annie, her friend Tom, David, and I rented bicycles and biked 10 km out to Pah kham cave and the blue lagoon. Tom turned around and biked out, and we thanked him for showing us the way. As we turned the last corner before our destination David squeezed the front brake and went flying over his handlebars. He bent the front wheel of his bike, and it was almost unrideable.
Finally we arrived, and we scaled a huge mt. and then went spelunking in this amazing and dangerous cave, but it was fun and exciting. I used the headlamp my dad lent me(Thanks dad!), and led the way up and down the rickety stairs through the cave. I was inside mother earth. Inside nature's womb.
After we were all hot and sweaty I helped Annie down the steep and slippery jungle mt. to the Blue Lagoon. She had a serious motorbike accident a couple days prior.
The Blue lagoon was immaculate, but David wouldn't know because while I swam, and Annie waded her feet in the water(to avoid getting a staff infection from soaking her wounds in the water), David wrote in his journal. Then he exclaimed in a peaceful moment that he wanted to leave and return the bike. He said that he would get in trouble for bending the wheel. Since the bike wouldn't ride he carried it out of the national park on his shoulders with the Lao women laughing at him in the background.
Annie and I stayed. I swam and swung from the rope swing with the Lao children, and then we went back. Later that night she came to visit me at my guesthouse and the owner saw her wounds. She asked to see them. When she did she freaked out and told Annie to return at 6 p.m., so that her husband, who was a Doctor, could clean them. When Annie return the Doctor was smoking a cig. and drinking a beer. He nodded at her and got her a chair to sit on. He cleaned her wounds and applied Turmeric with a knife directly to the wounds before covering them with gauze and tape.
Then next day the bandages were stuck to her wounds, and neither of us knew what to do, so we lounged by the Mekong River enjoying beers with two cool African guys until 6 p.m., and then we returned to the good Doctor. Annie showed him that the bandages were stuck, so he motioned for her to sit. He started applying a solution and gently began peeling off the attached gauze, but then he pointed across the room, and when she looked he ripped the bandages and the top layer of her wounds off. He then started laughing sadistically. I thought he was crazy, and she started crying and looking to me for help. I didn't know what to do! In fact, I think my mouth was hanging open when she was crying in pain and fear and he began mimicking her crying to make fun of her. When I wanted to say something he looked to me and stopped, applied Hydrogen peroxide to her wounds, which started to fizz from the infection, and then he applied a fresh application of turmeric to her wounds with his trusty knife. No gauze this time. He told her in 3 days she would be healed. Then he massaged her energy lines on her forearm and fingers before sending us on our way. The wounds did look dramatically improved by the next day.
She and her Canadian posse left for Vietnam, so I biked out to the organic farm which is an eco-sustainable living farm. This farm supports the village and helps keep kids in school.
The food was amazing, and there I met my crazy friend Luis. Luis is 60-something, half German and Half Spanish, but living in Ceville, Spain. He spends half of every year in India, smokes like a chimney, has random flings with young crazy Lao girls, and is the most animated character I've ever met. He and I enjoyed the day conversing about randomness. After lunch I helped him move to my guesthouse where I received a note from Cesar from the front desk. He had arrived, and would be back any moment to see me. Yay! :D
These two men couldn't be more different! Where Luis is tall, crazy, non-linear, and loud. Cesar is short(yes, shorter and 6 years older than me), driven, balanced, and thoughtful. The next day the three of us went kayaking down the Mekong River where everyone goes tubing. We stopped off at some of the bars, we had fun on the rope swings, and I enjoyed my free shots of Lao Lao. I think I'm the only person crazy enough to drink this alcohol, and for that reason I never have to pay for it. :) Cesar and I went out dancing that night at one of three bars on the island, and we had a blast! It began to rain because the monsoons have begun.
Yesterday he and I biked 35 km to a different blue lagoon, had lunch, mingled with the locals, and went out dancing again.
Now I'm in Vientiane with my new Finnish friend Elina. Tomorrow I will explore this capital and all it has to offer. She and I are talking about renting bikes and venturing out to the Buddha Park.
After dinner we walked the town. People were enjoying the 'pizza shops,' which are drug shops. They add ganja or mushrooms to your food if you order off the 'special menu.' I was also amused by everyone hypnotized by Friends episodes playing on the t.v.'s at several of the restaurants. These people are on vacation in the middle of one of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen to watch this stupid show? And do the Lao people think this is the lifestyle of the majority? I hope not.
David and I went to a bar where I met my new good Canadian friend Annie. She was helping out at the bar, serving me free drinks, and I stayed there talking to her until the bars closed at midnight. David thankfully left. Did I mention that he will stop in his tracks while in the middle of a conversation or while walking with me to write in his journal. Yeah... he's odd.
Anyways, the next day Annie, her friend Tom, David, and I rented bicycles and biked 10 km out to Pah kham cave and the blue lagoon. Tom turned around and biked out, and we thanked him for showing us the way. As we turned the last corner before our destination David squeezed the front brake and went flying over his handlebars. He bent the front wheel of his bike, and it was almost unrideable.
Finally we arrived, and we scaled a huge mt. and then went spelunking in this amazing and dangerous cave, but it was fun and exciting. I used the headlamp my dad lent me(Thanks dad!), and led the way up and down the rickety stairs through the cave. I was inside mother earth. Inside nature's womb.
After we were all hot and sweaty I helped Annie down the steep and slippery jungle mt. to the Blue Lagoon. She had a serious motorbike accident a couple days prior.
The Blue lagoon was immaculate, but David wouldn't know because while I swam, and Annie waded her feet in the water(to avoid getting a staff infection from soaking her wounds in the water), David wrote in his journal. Then he exclaimed in a peaceful moment that he wanted to leave and return the bike. He said that he would get in trouble for bending the wheel. Since the bike wouldn't ride he carried it out of the national park on his shoulders with the Lao women laughing at him in the background.
Annie and I stayed. I swam and swung from the rope swing with the Lao children, and then we went back. Later that night she came to visit me at my guesthouse and the owner saw her wounds. She asked to see them. When she did she freaked out and told Annie to return at 6 p.m., so that her husband, who was a Doctor, could clean them. When Annie return the Doctor was smoking a cig. and drinking a beer. He nodded at her and got her a chair to sit on. He cleaned her wounds and applied Turmeric with a knife directly to the wounds before covering them with gauze and tape.
Then next day the bandages were stuck to her wounds, and neither of us knew what to do, so we lounged by the Mekong River enjoying beers with two cool African guys until 6 p.m., and then we returned to the good Doctor. Annie showed him that the bandages were stuck, so he motioned for her to sit. He started applying a solution and gently began peeling off the attached gauze, but then he pointed across the room, and when she looked he ripped the bandages and the top layer of her wounds off. He then started laughing sadistically. I thought he was crazy, and she started crying and looking to me for help. I didn't know what to do! In fact, I think my mouth was hanging open when she was crying in pain and fear and he began mimicking her crying to make fun of her. When I wanted to say something he looked to me and stopped, applied Hydrogen peroxide to her wounds, which started to fizz from the infection, and then he applied a fresh application of turmeric to her wounds with his trusty knife. No gauze this time. He told her in 3 days she would be healed. Then he massaged her energy lines on her forearm and fingers before sending us on our way. The wounds did look dramatically improved by the next day.
She and her Canadian posse left for Vietnam, so I biked out to the organic farm which is an eco-sustainable living farm. This farm supports the village and helps keep kids in school.
The food was amazing, and there I met my crazy friend Luis. Luis is 60-something, half German and Half Spanish, but living in Ceville, Spain. He spends half of every year in India, smokes like a chimney, has random flings with young crazy Lao girls, and is the most animated character I've ever met. He and I enjoyed the day conversing about randomness. After lunch I helped him move to my guesthouse where I received a note from Cesar from the front desk. He had arrived, and would be back any moment to see me. Yay! :D
These two men couldn't be more different! Where Luis is tall, crazy, non-linear, and loud. Cesar is short(yes, shorter and 6 years older than me), driven, balanced, and thoughtful. The next day the three of us went kayaking down the Mekong River where everyone goes tubing. We stopped off at some of the bars, we had fun on the rope swings, and I enjoyed my free shots of Lao Lao. I think I'm the only person crazy enough to drink this alcohol, and for that reason I never have to pay for it. :) Cesar and I went out dancing that night at one of three bars on the island, and we had a blast! It began to rain because the monsoons have begun.
Yesterday he and I biked 35 km to a different blue lagoon, had lunch, mingled with the locals, and went out dancing again.
Now I'm in Vientiane with my new Finnish friend Elina. Tomorrow I will explore this capital and all it has to offer. She and I are talking about renting bikes and venturing out to the Buddha Park.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Vang Vieng
After a long and cramped 7 hr. mini bus trip through the gorgeous scenic mountains along the Mekong River, I arrived in a cute little party adventure town called Vang Vieng. This town called me here because of the extreme sports, i.e. rock climbing, spelunking, kayaking, and mountain biking. Many Phanangs are here for other reasons though like the tubing with River side bars and the fun rope swings, which I'll also try. There's another side to Vang Vieng though, and I accidentally stumbled across it. At lunch with my mini-van friend David he and I were talking about our interests in this town: what we wanted to see and do, how we were going to go about approaching them, and I was giving David advice on how to handle his Vietnam visa. Suddenly we heard the clashing of glasses "Kanpai!" I turned around and said "Hey, Kanpai! Do you know how to say Cheers in Lao?" They said no, because they only just arrived(They were Japanese). The waiter said: "Ngoke! is cheers in Lao."
Cool!
Then the Japanese party asked me if I was going to be happy inside and pointed at the restaurant sign with a little note on the back that said "we can make you happy inside," so I curiously asked what that meant. The talkative Japanese guy exclaimed that they can put magic mushrooms or ganja in your food if you ask. Whoa! I thanked them for the info, but told them I'm too old for that stuff. :) Good to know though. I'll pass the info on, hahaha!
As I walked around town making friends, and getting price deals for my extreme sports adventure extravaganza plans I heard from many people that this little town is like a mini-Amsterdam.
Anyway, I only just arrived 2 hrs ago, but already I'm surprised and curious to see what more I will discover.
I must say though, this town is nestled in the most gorgeous and gigantic mountains I've seen in SE Asia. I feel like I'm in the Alps. Alps with banana trees.
Cool!
Then the Japanese party asked me if I was going to be happy inside and pointed at the restaurant sign with a little note on the back that said "we can make you happy inside," so I curiously asked what that meant. The talkative Japanese guy exclaimed that they can put magic mushrooms or ganja in your food if you ask. Whoa! I thanked them for the info, but told them I'm too old for that stuff. :) Good to know though. I'll pass the info on, hahaha!
As I walked around town making friends, and getting price deals for my extreme sports adventure extravaganza plans I heard from many people that this little town is like a mini-Amsterdam.
Anyway, I only just arrived 2 hrs ago, but already I'm surprised and curious to see what more I will discover.
I must say though, this town is nestled in the most gorgeous and gigantic mountains I've seen in SE Asia. I feel like I'm in the Alps. Alps with banana trees.
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