The last round of Thailand

I unfortunately have to bid adieu to Thailand tomorrow morning, as I make a long journey back home. Over the last 5 days I have thoroughly enjoyed my remaining days in this spiritually rich beautiful country. It took me around 12 hrs by bus and ferry one way to reach my secret sanctuary: Silvery Moon Bungalows. I had written them ahead of time asking if I could have a bungalow on the beach, because I needed to relax. I hadn't heard back from them and was anxious that I had no reservation, wondering what I would do... As I walked through the punishing sun radiating down upon me from its zenith after exiting the pier on Koh Phangan island, with all of my luggage, I finally stopped for a drink of water. A young Aussie pulled up besides me on his motorbike, and asked if he could help me, free of charge. I thought: Thank you, god. :) "Yes, please!" He took me to my favorite place in the whole world were Beat and Koi(the owners) were relaxing in the hammock awaiting my arrival. They remembered me, since I've been there 4 times in 8 months. hahahaha! Beat declared, we're giving you the best bungalow, right on the beach with the best view. "Wow, Korp Khun Ka!"
There was only one other guest. A polish girl who I spent the entire sunset and evening talking to on the beach and over dinner. She and I have the same taste in independent films. We're also both Gemini women traveling alone, so we had many stories to share. She was in the middle of a 3 month trip, and I am on my last leg of the journey in Asia. She left the next morning, and I wished her a safe trip. She's a good person. :)
The next 2 days I spent alone snorkeling, reading on the beach or in my hammock, walking, eating Koi's amazing food(the best in the world!), doing yoga, and meditating. I'm reading one of the most amazing books I've ever read: The Autobiography of a yogi. The second best book of all time is Papillon! :)
Yesterday I awoke to appreciate the beach and breakfast one last time. I thanked Koi who made me promise to come back, and I had to sign the book again. It's like a yearbook, because it gives guests an opportunity to express their gratitude creatively in a thick drawing book. Beat took my heavy bag on his motorbike, and I climbed up the jungle mountain. He and I arrived around the same time. I didn't have to wait long for a tuk tuk taxi to arrive and take me to the pier, where I caught my ferry to Surratthani. Then I had a 2 hr. wait for the bus. While I waited, I befriended an Argentinian man over a small portion of cow pat gai(chicken fried rice), and gave him a special coin after he openly expressed his new found love of Buddhism.
The bus arrived.
We boarded the bus for an 8 hr. journey. While I was sleeping someone robbed me of all my money which I was going to use to float me until I arrived in the states. I was depressed. :(
I thought I was so careful too!
grumble.
sigh.
The bus dropped us off at 3:30 a.m. in the middle of nowhere, but I recognized the location vaguely, and directed the Argentinian and I to Kho San rd. I pointed him to a guest house that takes dollars, and I found my favorite place around the corner. They only had one room left, and it was on the 6th floor. My tired undernourished body didn't feel as though it could make the climb, but you get into a fixed gaze, and your legs just keep moving, because they have to. It's almost like you detach from your body. Mark called to ask me how I was. I asked him for a minute where I could vent about my day. He listened, and then we just chatted away until his ph card was sucked dry, and my phone died.
I slept light.
This morning it donned on me immediately when my eyes flickered open that it is my last day in Southeast Asia. Tomorrow morning I will board a plane and make my departure to Taipei, San Fransisco, and then Phoenix. The journey is 26 hrs long, and then I can see my loving family, my dear kit-cat, and my friends. :)
I enjoyed a delicious plate of tropical fruit and had a coconut to wash it down. Yum!
Today I'm going to get pampered, see Paulo tonight and go out to our favorite Blues club, and then try to sleep. It will be difficult, because I know my stomach will be doing flips.
I know the adventure is not ending, just taking a new form.
I have so many new experiences and insights that I'm taking to the west.
My life is forever changed, and I'm grateful to god, this opportunity, this adventure, my intuition and will power, and the support of the people who love me and the people I've met along the way. I cannot help but smile when I think about some of the wild experiences I've encountered: Tracy the tiger tamer, chillin with monks, cliff diving over a waterfall in Laos with monks, riding elephants, hiking volcanoes, scuba diving in Vietnam/Thailand/Indonesia, getting robbed 4 times, completing Thai massage/foot reflexology and cooking school, being surrounded by hundreds of butterflies like snow white, riding motorcycles all over the place, hiking 6 hrs through the mountains of northern Vietnam near China for a home cooked traditional lunch with the local tribal women, taking a vow of silence in a Buddhist monetary, learning a new language: Thai, seeing Angkor Wat, and so much more! My head cannot even wrap around everything!
The pedals of my life are unfolding allowing my inner beauty to shine. I feel elated and filled with joy. The most important lesson I can take with me is to listen to my life, follow my intuition, and to express love and compassion unconditionally. Smile often, and do the things you want to do with this precious life you've been given, because you never know when your time will expire.
To all of you who love me and have offered support, Thank you. I love you too.

Singapore

I thankfully departed Indonesia, and if I return there it will be too soon. One thing I can say is I do appreciate when people are obvious about there motives, which were commonly self-serving. When someone is kind and altruistic it make you appreciate being human and having a neo-cortex, and be reminded that there is still decency and love in a greedy technological world.
When someone offers their support and kindness it restores faith in humanity. What it also does it makes me want to be a better person consistently, and to operate from love and respect on a daily basis, because it's more necessary than I've ever seen, or noticed before. The younger generations have money on the mind, and in the experiences I've had I'm viewed as a walking ATM machine, not a person of interest or value. Just a means to an end to drive consumerism onward, and that makes me sad.
So, I feel as though it is imperative to smile often, and remain humble, treat people with respect, because life is a gift. Also, life is too short to attach to the impermanent world. That only creates suffering. Human to human contact is important, because it reminds us that we are all connected and equal.
Someone in my life that has been a beautiful example of positivity and genuine love is Mark. He has truly been a source of support and compassion over the last few years, but especially in the last few months, and I'm grateful to still have him in my life. I'm thankful for his presence in this world. Thank you, Mark. I look forward to seeing you after my return home. You are a very special person to me, and I love you.

After a grueling experience at the airport in Bali, I have arrived in Singapore. The cleanest country in the world, and maybe the most technologically advanced and well organized. I'm extremely impressed!!!! :)
Day 1: Today I enjoyed the user-friendly transportation system to meander through Chinatown. This city is pretty unbelievable because there are so many fascinating cultural avenues and historical sites to explore. Most of them are free too, which is amazing. This city can be as cheap or expensive as you're willing to make it, and the locals seem very intelligent and helpful. Observation: One thing I found amusing, and a little scary is all the rules in this city. If you step out of line by chewing gum, smoking outside a designated area, littering, loitering, vandalism, etc.. then there is either a hefty fine awaiting you, even 'caining,' or death by hanging. There are signs everywhere telling you to be on the lookout for suspicious behavior, and to call the police immediately if you notice something that seems unusual. This level of conformity frightens me, because it reminds me of Aldous Huxley's: 'Brave New World', but overall, this is a gorgeous city that I would love to spend more time appreciating.
I wandered through art galleries, Buddhist temples(learning more on Buddhism and listening to chanting from monks), visiting Indian mosques, parks, and Chinese alleyways full of sensual delights, i.e. food and fashion.
I have only 1 1/2 days more before I return to Thailand. OMG! How the time flies by! I'm trying not to think about it too much, so I can savor these precious moments. I met a guy from Africa named Bobby who I enjoyed political and economical conversations with over a beer, compliments of Fern Loft hostel. It was so interesting to learn about his African heritage.

Day 2: Today I awoke to receiving a wonderful email from my family and Mark, which made my whole day fabulous! :D I decided today to ship a box home to avoid ridiculous excess weight luggage costs that the airport shocked me with in Bali. A sweet elderly couple were more than helpful in giving me directions to the post office, and even waited until I crossed the street to wave goodbye to me. :) Then on the way to the post office with my bag of stuff, a sweet man and his family pulled over and offered me a ride to the post office, which I gratefully accepted. Now I feel lighter and stress free. I meandered through the famous Bugis district and enjoyed many different fruit drinks: COCONUT, WHEAT GRASS, AND CARROT! Yummmmmy! I walked all over, and talked to many kind people and saw many beautiful pieces of art. My faith in people has been renewed. It's like night and day compared to Indonesia. hahahahahaha! I don't think I stopped smiling today. Singaporeans are lovely people, and very well educated too. From the age of 2 they begin learning English, Malay, and Chinese. Incredible! I think our educational system has much to be desired. I found a new book today. My average reading now is a novel every 2 days. My brain is thirsty for knowledge, and continuing meditation to compliment that knowledge by cultivating wisdom and peace will only be a perfect balance for insight and harmony.
I can't believe I leave for Thailand tomorrow afternoon.

going going, back to back, to Bali Bali

So, 20 hrs., 1 train, 1 ferry, 1 bus, 1 bemo later, and I'm back in familiar Bali after navigating through chaotic Java. I arrived in Kuta this afternoon, and after a long cold shower I put on my black and red bikini and sauntered down to the beach. This town has the beach attraction flooded by Australians and surf enthusiasts. Kuta reminds me of Mission beach, San Diego, CA., with an Indonesian twist. The crowd is young and scantily clad. The locals have bleached out hair and adopted a bohemian/reggae-like vibe. I like the buzz here. It's relaxed. Kuta reminds me of Emily, and I miss my best friend.

Kuta is still trying to recover from the 2002 terrorist bombings, which is the deadliest act of terrorist in Indonesian history. The terrorists targeted a nightclub with 3 bombs in the happenin tourist area killing over 200 people. The memory of this event still haunts this city.
I recently learned that the terrorists responsible for the bombing will be executed this month.

I'll stay in Kuta my last remaining 4 days in Indonesia and use this place as my home base to explore the south a bit, or just relax on the beautiful beaches, swim, read my new book: Water for Elephants, and eat tropical fruit. :) I want to soak up this experience. This is also a convenient place to pause because it's only 20 mins from the airport. It's less than 2 weeks until I'm home again for 3 whole weeks to spend with my family and friends. :) Yay!
I have a feeling of peace and satisfaction coursing through me. I did it! With god on my side, I went half way around the world alone, functioned freely through foreign cultures with language barriers, and overcame many of my random anxieties and adversities. I wonder, what's to stop me from opening up my own business soon? Why not?

Yogyakarta

I have arrived in Java during the Muslim holiday of Ramadan, which lasts one month. The holiday consists of a 1 month fast from 4 am-sunset. No food, water, or cigarettes. This is a time to find peace within, to control the mind, and cleanse. There is a punishing heat that beats down on all living things here in Yogyakarta, and many people look and feel drained because of Ramadan and the heat, especially the bechak drivers who cycle people around in a covered cart in the heat with no food or water under the extreme sun all day long breathing in smog. I learned that the average life expectancy of an Indonesian male is 63, and a woman is 65. That isn't long. People run themselves and their animals into the ground. It is difficult for me to watch, but that is how life is out here. It is a hard life. The people fight to stay alive and provide for their families. I am humbled by the will power of the people in Indonesia. Truly.

Yesterday Soraya, Willie, and I walked to the Sultan's palace in the center of the city. We learned about the Sultan's family, rituals, and saw the layout of the palace. It was very cool. I've never been in such close proximity to a Sultan before. Also, this is the first Sultan who has chosen only one wife. He has 5 daughters, and when he dies his younger brother will become his successor.

In the afternoon, we organized a trip to the Prambhanan temple. It is one of the largest Hindu temples in the world, and has Buddhist influence. There are three main temples. One for Brahma, one for Vishnu, and one for Shiva. I thoroughly explored them all in awe. For they truly are glorious! They were completed in 900 a.d., and discovered by the Dutch in the 1800's. The Dutch unfortunately literally defaced this temple by severing the heads off some of the Buddha statues to sell back at home, but fortunately they redeemed themselves later by realizing the value of this temple, clearing away the rubbish, and creating a peace park to view and appreciate Prabhanan. On May 27th, 2006 an earthquake devastated Prabhanan temple, and damaged much of the Vishnu temple, which is the large central one, and it is currently under restoration. I had fun observing this temple from headstand, and afterwards we witnessed a beautiful sunset in the background of the temple that we enjoyed from the grass, we made our way next door to experience the Ramayana ballet with Pranbhanan in the background illuminated in gold light.
Ramayana Ballet is the Hindu story of Rama and Sita, which is the Hindu version of Romeo and Juliet. The Indonesian dancing, dressings, music, traditional costumes, and lighting portrayed a beautiful story brought to life by this talented cast. We were all impressed.

This morning at 5 a.m. we were picked up and driven through the misty rice fields at sunrise for 1 1/2 hrs until we reached the impressive and incredible Borobudur temple. It was also Hindu and Buddhist influence, but more Buddhist because of the hundreds of Buddha statues and stupas. It was built in the 9th century. There are 8 levels. The bottom 4 are square shaped levels with intricate and elaborate shallow reliefs scultpures depicting scenes from the Mhalabharta, i.e. the Upanishads. The disciples sitting at the foot of their guru learning about spirituality. As you rise through the levels the art becomes more simple, and the levels become round, adorned with only stupas and Buddha statues. This represents the soul rising through the human world towards enlightenment were everything is more simple, serene, and peaceful. In the distance you can see Merapi volcano which has almost destroyed this temple with intense earthquakes over time. This temple was also almost destroyed when Javanese terrorists exploded bombs nearby in Yogyakarta. This temple was once ransacked by the dutch and then forgotten. The earth protected it with its overgrowth until The Dutch Governor and explorer: Raffles rediscovered it, and cleared away the vines. Thank god this temple has stood against the test of time, because it truly is a spiritual and special place. When I sat at the top of the temple at the base of the large central stupa overlooking the massive Merapi volcano in the distance encircled by clouds, and accompanied by large mountains, I felt at peace and grateful to be able to have this experience.
Many people never will.

I am almost out of money, as I am in my 7th month of travel, but I would never trade any of my southeastern adventures for the impermanent comforts of the material world. I thank god everyday that I am here, and have seen and experiences the things that I have. Everyday that I awake I have been reborn. For all of you who have supported and loved me: Thank you.
For all of you who have believed in me: Thank you. I love you all, and I look forward to seeing you soon. However, I must warn you: I have changed. In my opinion for the better, because if I were to die tomorrow I would have no regrets. For I have lived my life with compete authenticity, and now my heart is wide open. I realize now that there is no reason to be anxious, because there is nothing to fear. If you are unhappy, create a change. Express yourself. LIVE!

Bromo Volcano on Java island

After an amazing 2 dives in Permatean and Menjangan island, Soraya, Willie, and I took the ferry to Java. The cost was cheap, but the weight I'm now carrying is daunting. However, we all managed. Once we arrived on Java we booked the local bus fare to take us to Promoloingo, so we could then take another bus up the mt. to Bromo. We did not anticipate the bus ride to last 8 hrs! Nor did we expect to be hassled, stared at, stuck in the back by the speakers(which is seretly unplugged to avoid being blasted by Indo pop music), or have to deal with the crowd of Muslim men chain smoking clove cigarettes on the bus, or the filthy pollution. It was an adventure to say the least. The bus flew down the road at what felt like 100 mph, and the entire back of the bus turned around to state at the 3 of us like we were a bunch of zoo animals. Random musicians would jump on board and sing, and then ask for donations. this happened over and over, some with an amp and mic. Over and over these men offered us cigarettes, and couldn't believe that were didn't smoke. How absurd! hahahah! They all wanted to shake our hands, and some tried to squeeze between us to sit close. Every one of those men I shooed away with my fan and told them to sit elsewhere out of instinct, and I'm glad for it, because two I saw trying to feel up under a 12 yr old girls skirt, and I slapped him on the arm with my wooden fan, and told him to stop. He did, and apologized.
We arrived at 8 p.m. and it was hot. Also, we were cranky and starving. We found a minivan going up the mt. towards Bromo, and crammed on. On a van which seats 8 comfortable, we squeezed 15. No joke. However, we arrived safely, and when we stepped off the van, the men who aided us with out luggage were wearing snow jackets, because the temperature dropped to 40 degrees f. It was ridiculously freezing! A shock. :O
I went to bed immediately under my blanket shivering, and the girls went for dinner.
We awoke at 3:30 a.m. and took a jeep to the base of Bromo volcano and hiked to the top of the lookout to watch the sunrise. It was cold, but so gorgeous. We warmed our sleepy bodies with ginseng coffee, and watched the sunrise. Once there was light, me, and the other crazy 30 tourists and locals could see the smoke billowing from the crater to the right. The sight was unforgettable, and so far my experience on Java was proving to be very eventful. We hiked down to meet the driver who took us to the base of the crater. We hiked for an hour to the rim, and with our gasping lungs took a nice inhalation of sulphuric smoke, while enjoying the beauty and drama of the landscape. I hiked to the highest point on the rim. Only a few other crazy should joined me. 1/2 later I saw Willie climbing up. We congratulated each other, hugged, and smiled while she took pictures. My camera isn't working.
Once we made it back down the mt. to our hotel to enjoy our pithy breakfast we took an 8 hr. van ride to Yogyakatra, which is the art capital of Indonesia. The ride was chaotic and entertaining. The landscape was beautiful. sigh
I'm tired. I'll rest here 3 days before returning to Bali. I leave soon, and that thought is making me anxious a little. I adore the life of the east, and returning to the western world is foreign.

bike gang

Soraya, David, Dodik(my Balinese friend), and I rented motorcycles and rode out to the hot springs and Gitgit waterfall. Dodik strapped me into the helmet and took me to Kalibikbuk to meet Soraya and David. Soraya and I rented motorbikes, and David rode on the back of Dodik's motorbike out of town towards the hotsprings. It was a blast! The 3 springs were sulfuric and healing. They are varied in temperature with giant stone dragon faces which poured water out of their mouths. The water streams from their mouths massaged my muscles and turned them into putty. :) In the giant pool I swam around like a frog, just because I could, but in the small pools my eyes fluttered shut and all my tention escaped my mind and body as I slipped into a meditation.
We ate chicken satay with peanut sauce, and drank tea. We all get along so well, and had a great time laughing it up in the springs.
On the way back through town we picked up Willie. She jumped on the back of my bike, and we were off again. This time towards Gitgit waterfall. We climbed our bikes up the roads through the jungle mountains and beat the storm. Once we arrived, we hiked down a series of steps for 15 mins. and approached a massive waterfall that filled the valley with mist. It was gorgeous! We took many goofy pictures, and then hiked back up, singing songs and laughing, and left. On the journey home we took back-roads, trying to avoid potholes, and wizzed through the jungle towards Anturan at sunset.
Tomorrow I leave and head west to dive for the last time, before I head south to surf.

living in Lovina loca

I took the Perama bus through the mountains of central Bali through cold fog, past monkeys walking on the side of the road, thick foliage, rice fields, women walking with giant baskets full of things on top their head, children running and playing, stinky motorcycles, and the workings of daily Balinese life with colorful batik sarongs blowing in the wind and incense filling my nostrils. The bus was stuffed full of people smiling and gazing out the windows experiencing the visual and kinesthetic beauty.
When I departed the bus, a young man approached me and said 50,000 for Gede's homestay. I looked at his card, and it said everything I was looking for. I said: 45,000 rupees($5), and it's a deal. He said ok. The homestay was clean, comfortable, and linked with a reggae bar. All the sons of Gede are in a raggae band, and the children are very musically inclined! :) They said: Tracy? Oh, like Tracy Chapman!" Everyone says that. :) Every morning they wake me up for breakfast by playing the guitar and singing Tracy Chapman songs, and I happily awake with a smile, do yoga, and make my way to the restaraunt for my fruit salad and warm Bali tea.
:) I love it.
I made a good friend: Willie. She's from the Netherlands, and we negotiated a fare yesterday by motorbike with our young homestay guides: Gecko and Doodi, to visit the cold, blessed, healing springs in the mountains outside Lovina. It was a blast! I made two friends there: Soraya(New Zealand) and David(England). We all went out last night and listened to cover band music by the talented locals. The night ended with a sing along on the beach and watching the sunrise.
Today I'll read me new cherished book: Papillon(the story of Henri Charriere's life and his prison breaks from Guiana). Today is a good day. Everyday is, because no day is the same, and it never will be again.

The hunt for Mola Mola

I awoke this morning early for my exotic fruit salad and pineapple pancake overlooking the sea, yoga, and packing before my dive. After getting my gear sorted at WaterWorx dive shop we headed out by boat to Nusa Penida on a hunt for sightings of the rare Mola Mola fish. This fish is unique to this region of the world, it is part of the plankton family or sunfish family, and has no tail fin, but a 12 ft. top to bottom fin span. It also weighs 1 ton. On the first dive in my thick full wet suit, I went down to 35m/105ft(roughly), and saw immediately a giant gray reef shark in the blue abyss, and a massive white tip shark, a 3 ft. puffer fish, and an amazing reef! Once I got of to the boat after 40 mins. I saw the Mola Mola's top fin sticking out of the surface of the water. Oh, how it teased us!
On the second dive the drift was too strong. We fought it from ripping us out into oblivion and gulped up our air rapidly, but I saw a 3 1/2 ft. puffer fish, and array of unique schools of fish I've never seen, a gold trumpet fish, and beautiful coral.
Once I returned the scuba staff and I went out for lunch, and then I found a cheap room, since I lost my old one due to premature checkout. I bought a bus ticket, and I leave for Lovina tomorrow, which is where I'll find more diving in the north island, trekking, hot and cold springs, and waterfalls, besides some r & r.
Today was a great day! :D I'm grateful.

leaving Ubud

After the challenging cycling tour through the rice fields, volcano, and jungle, I ended with a tour through Monkey forest. There are over 300 aggressive Macaques that live in this forest. 120 juveniles, 25 males, and the rest are all females. You can clearly see the territories outlines by the Alpha males. When I entered I brought a banana to give a lucky monkey, and I found a big outgoing male to give it to. I threw him the banana and he jumped up on the stone podium of the wall. His prehensile tale curled around the wall to steady himself while he peeled the banana. However, it got ugly when I took a picture of him, because the flash frightened the monkey, and he lunged towards me bearing all his teeth. I think I screamed and jumped back 10 ft. thinking he was going to jump on my face and bite my nose off! I was terrified, but I lived to tell the story! Thank you, God! :) I explored the dense jungle forest flooded with monkeys, and wandered through the jungle temples. The place was beautiful with it's streams, carved stone, draping trees, and Hindu shrines hidden in the foliage.
The next day Karen and I hired a private driver to take us to the temple on Agung volcano(the largest volcano on Bali). This was the day after an important religious holiday, but once we arrived we learned the ceremonies were still in session, and we were able to attend and witness a very unexpected sacred experience at Pura Basaikh temple. The men all dressed in white shirts with a matching hat with sarongs. The women all dressed to impress with flowers in their hair, elegant sarongs with matching belts, and see-through long sleeve shirts over a corset. There was Barung music which paraded up and down the steep steps weaving throughout the outdoor volcanic black-stone temple. The carvings were intricate. I was speechless, because this experience was magical and beautiful! :) I was humbled and felt blessed to be there. The women dressed me in traditional clothing and invited Karen and I in to observe.
After we left the temple our driver took us to Amed.
This morning in Amed I did my first wreck dive around and through an old WW2 ship that was shot down off the coast of Tulampen. The ship is called the USS Liberty. It was an incredible dive! The coral and marine life have taken over the old wreck, and made it into a spectacular site full of life and color from the depths of 3-25 m in the clear sea.
The 2nd dive was reef off shore dive where I saw more diverse coral and color than on any other dive in my life! I also saw my first Pygmy sea horse! I saw a maneray, 2 scorpion fish, a 3 ft. long squid, and so much more! OMG! It was amazing! What I also saw that blew my mind were the local women who carried the scuba tanks to and from the shore on top their heads!
Now I'm in Padang Bai where I will snorkel in the Blue Lagoon tomorrow and explore town, maybe set up a surf lesson, because I've always wanted to try surfing, and set up my dive to the Nusa islands to see the famous Mola Mola fish.
Indonesia is a unique and fascinating place. I can see that you need a lot of time here to learn the language and get to know the people intimately, as well as see all 14,000 island including the famous Komodo dragon island, and I feel fortunate to have 19 more days to spend here. I want to make all of them count!

Balinese culture

I've been spending my days walking non-stop to look at the dance, batik art, ornate wooden sculptures, paintings, jewelry, clothes, culinary, natural spas/infrared saunas, etc... I love all that Ubud has to offer in terms of spirituality as well! Tomorrow is a huge celebration to the Hindu deities, and there will be a huge festival. I don't know what to expect, but the locals have been weaving baskets filled with flowers and incense in preparation to set in front of temples, sacred statues, and spiritual locations.
Yesterday my friend Karen and I took a day trip outside of Ubud and biked 35+ km through the mountains of small villages and rice fields to Batur Volcano and Lake. It was a spectacular site! I had breakfast of fresh fruit and a chocolate pancake(with this view in the background: Gorgeous!) to give me energy for the challenging bike ride, which I followed up with an infrared sauna to release the tension.
Every morning and evening I do yoga and meditation, my days are filled with walking, site seeing, healthy food, hanging out with Karen, and the random surprises that find me. I like Ubud even though it can be a little pricey in comparison to what I've been accustomed to in S.E. Asia thus far, but after after the festival I'm ready to travel to the big volcano and hike it! I have to leave at 2 a.m. to begin the hike to make it to the top for sunrise, but I love the sound of the adventure. The most spectacular temple in Bali is located near this volcano. Then I can travel to Amed to do some wreck diving through some old bomber planes. Then I will travel south to take a ferry to the islands to dive with the rare mola mola fish. Google it, it's amazing!

Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

I arrived in Bali late last night, and my Balinese driver was waiting for me with a giant sign amongst an intimidating crown of people shouting, holding signs, and handing out fliers, the sign said: 'Trecy'. His name is Ketut, and he's from east Bali. He and I drove 45 mins. into the dark laughing and talking in a clunker van where I had to tie the seatbelt. He told me that although the majority of Indonesia is Muslim, that Bali is Hindu. He told me there had been no terrorist attacks since the 2002 bomb on Kuta beach, which is now a famous surf spot. I was so impressed by the art that I could actually see in the darkness, and I was vibrating with happiness to be in Indonesia! My best friend Emily use to live on Java, and she always told me how gorgeous Indo was, but to beware of carnivorous banana spiders in the jungle.
When Ketut and I arrived at the hotel: Narasoma. I was led by 2 large temples with intricate stone and wood carvings, up a steep staircase with a magnificent shallow relief porcelain sculpture of Vishnu, through the second level adorned by gorgeous Hindu sculptures of deities, up to the 3rd floor. The enormous intricately carved wooden door took my breath away, as did the equally impressively carved wooded shudders. When I walked into my room a carved wooded dragon boxed canopy bed greeted me. Inside was cloth netting pulled back romantically by a decorative fixture. I peeked into the bathroom and saw a bathtub, vaulted ceilings, and a huge window, which I found out in the morning overlooks the mountains and thick jungle. Beautiful! I had a balcony as well with an even better view. This is the kind of place you honeymoon! It is also by far the most luxurious place I've stayed thus far. A bathtub, Oh my god! Lucky me! :D I haven't taken a bath in almost 7 months! Yay! The room is also the most expensive: $13 a day, but it's worth it. I'm here in Ubud for a week or so to do intensive yoga and personal healing, so I will enjoy my luxurious place without any guilt. :)
I took a long hot bath, and meditated to the sound of chirping insects in the jungle on my balcony under the moon.
The night was cold, about 65 degrees.
When I awoke in my comfortable romantic bed I hopped out of bed, opened my french doors, and stepped onto my balcony to see an abundance of pristine nature. I was feeling really great! I walked onto my front porch, sat at my private table, and enjoyed the view. Wooden wind chimes and religious art blew in the wind from the trees. I looked at my table, and there was a thermos of hot water with a cup and 2 tea bags. Awesome! I started drinking my tea, and humming with pleasure when all of a sudden the owner started waving at me from below. I waved back, and he motioned a food signal. I smiled and nodded.
'Make' came up the stairs with a platter of fresh fruit and a thin pancake. It was delicious.
I spent the afternoon walking all over Ubud. I walked past Monkey Forest, through the market, and down all the streets. Ubud is the art capital of Bali, so you can imagine the fashion, jewelry, paintings, sculpture, dance, food, etc... This place is amazing! It is also dangerous for a woman on a budget. I bought an enormous piece of art at the market. Wow! I also have a pair of leather metallic heels on order, and I passed everything else up telling myself: "You're just going to look. Save your money. Think about what's important here, and it's not unnecessary consumerism."
After my evening yoga and meditation session, I met my neighbors. They are a sweet Californian couple who invited me to bike through monkey temple with them tomorrow after my morning yoga session and breakfast.
In a nutshell, I'm completely stimulated by this culture and country so far. I don't like how much I'm being hit on by the locals, and I find myself saying "No, Thank you" all the time, but I'm so happy to be here. I hear it's high season, and the majority of foreign travelers are French, Spanish, and Portuguese, but they all keep to themselves. It's mostly families and honeymooners in love.
I'll keep you all updated. I'm only on day 1. :)

the buzz

I've been in Bangkok for over a week, and I love this city! Anything you want is available here. The malls are so entertaining: 7 stories high, 1 block long, equipped with a VIP movie theatre(plush reclining seats, drink service, blankets, etc...), a bowling alley, state of the art games, and everything else under the sun. I could go on for days. Did I mention I LOVE Asia! I could live out here and be happy for the rest of my life if the people I love the most weren't so far away.
However, I did make a friend out here. He's one of the most amazing people I've ever met. His name is Paulo and he's a 65 year old Italian jewelery artist who has spent his life collecting and studying stones from all over the world. Also, he's a yogi who lived in India for 20 yrs. I love him, and he has offered me so much valuable guidance. I am thankful for his friendship. Did I mention he has a long white beard and looks like one of the members of ZZ Top, and everywhere we go he has people running up to him to compliment him on his beard. :) His energy is pure and wise. Paulo told me that the secret to life is peace, health, and divinity, and with that formula, consistency is key.
He told me that I am beautiful and to flow with life. Don't fight it. Be the still point in the turning world. -t.s. elliot

I jumped into a cab this afternoon and my cab driver and I became friends after the fare was negotiated to make us both happy. You have to be able to meet in the middle with people. Give and Take. His name is Jo. I asked him to take me to the city center, because I wanted to see a movie for the first time in almost 7 months! I wanted to see Batman! :) By the time we got to MBK Jo asked if I would like a friend to join me. I said yes. He and I went to the 7th floor, and he took me out for some traditional Thai food. Tom Yum Khun! Yummy! Spicy Thai soup with seafood. He treated even though I protested. Then I treated to the VIP movie. We drank our pink lemonade with huge grins plastered against our faces as we snuggled into our fuzzy red seats with our fuzzy red blankets. The movie kicked ass! I can't believe how amazing Heath Ledger was, may he rest in peace. Jo took me back to my guest house on the infamous Koh San Rd.
I need to pack, because I fly into Singapore tomorrow morning, and arrive in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia tomorrow night. I'll spend a month there. I'm so excited. This is where my best friend Emily lived with her lovely family for 5 years. I've heard so many unbelievable stories.
:D

hello Dhamma friends!

Since leaving the meditation retreat center, Liby(Israel) and I spent the afternoon trying to get a bus to take us to Surratthani to meet up with our Dhamma friends at a hotel for dinner, night market exploration, and a beer! A beer! Yum! It had been so long. :) We all went out once Liby and I arrived, and had 20 mins to get ready before the meet time. It was fun. My meditation friends and I even ate some grasshoppers at the night bizarre. I've officially experienced Asia! It was crunchy and delicious actually. We found some yummy Thai street food, and got some tall Chang beers from the 7 11 across the street to drink as we chatted and wandered the streets of Surratthani(a long time coming: talking). We stayed up until midnight talking outside the hotel, which after 10 days of being in bed by 9:30 p.m. to be awoken by a loud bell at 4 a.m., was a real treat!
I made some really wonderful friends through the detox and meditation retreat experiences. :)
The next day I left for Koh Tao, but found out that it was a Thai holiday for the Queen and that I could only go as far as Koh Phangan. Ok. No problem. I joined Anna(Spain), Gurvan(France), and Nikolaus(Germany) to the island. Gurvan and Nikolaus joined me at Silvery Moon Bungalows where we spent our days doing yoga on the beach in the mornings, meditating, having long inspiring conversations about life and our dreams, and enjoyed Koi's Thai yummy food. We spent two days together and had an incredible unforgettable bond. Gurvan and Nikolaus told me they think I'm inspirational and strong, and Gurvan informed me that he believes in me so much that he will do whatever it takes to assist me in opening up my business. He owns the largest consulting firm in Marseilles, France to find investors for businesses, and has many governmental connections. Earlier in my travels I met a man who told me he'll write my business plan for free. His name is Mark, and he's based in London. Well, this journey is certainly allowing me to connect with some helpful and friendly people.
Nichole unfortunately had her baby while I was at the meditation retreat center, but after stopping in Koh Tao for a few hours to see Kelly for her 30th birthday, I made it to Hua Hin to spend a long weekend with Nichole, Ben, and baby Jake. He's a week old and adorable. A healthy baby boy! :D
Getting to Nichole was an adventure in itself. I took at overnight boat, and slept on a pad on the floor of a rocking boat amongst the locals, and awoken by the boat arrival at 5 a.m. We were dropped off in Chumphon, and taken by a short ride in a stuffed mini van to a restaurant to await our bus departure. I had coffee and breakfast with a fascinating man named Philippe(France), and then the owner approached me and said: You can take a bus with everyone else, or you can take a private mini van with me to Hua Hin, because I need to pick up my daughter from the Princess's boarding school, and we can drop you off at the Springfield gold course(2 mins from where Nichole and Ben live). I chose to ride with the sweet older Thai man. He and I watched American comedies, and listened to Enya on the ride through the jungle with our own private driver in the luxurious posh van. We stopped whenever we wanted for food or toilet, and had good conversation on the way. They literally dropped me off at the most convenient location for Ben to pick me up. :)
Ben is taking me to BKK with him Monday morning so we can get our visa physicals. His is for the USA, and mine is for Australia, because I leave for Darwin in 2 weeks. Did i forget to mention that? Oh Yes, I am going to Australia! I have made many Australian friends over my travels that have offered their assistance, so entering a new country and opening a new chapter in my travels is not so intimidating. I've learned a lot over the last 6 months in S.E. Asia. It's going to be ok. :D

Saun Mokkh

My 10 day vow of silence, teaching yoga, learning Buddhism, sleeping on a concrete slab and wooden pillow, eating farm fresh organic vegetarian food, meditating by walking/sitting/standing, learning about the dhamma, and being brightened by a loving smile by the monks;volunteers;fellow students, really changed my life. I feel so transformed! :) The experience was deeply personal, and I would love to share it with you if you ask me intimately.
I absorbed everything like a sponge drinking up the spirituality, nature, and peace. I needed this and it was the most important experience in my life thus far. On day 9 I had an emotional breakdown, and it was difficult not being able to talk about it or write it out, since that's my form of therapy. I was forced to confront these issues, even things that arose that I had deeply suppressed. I healed a lot of old wounds, and although there are still a couple cuts in my heart that are sore I reminded myself of something anytime I felt upset about the future: que, sera, sera. Whatever will be, will be. The future's not ours to see. que, sera, sera. What will be, will be.
When the past hit me hard I realized it no longer exists anymore, and that I have to let things go through loving kindness.
The only reality is now.

vow of silence

Today I arrived at Saun Mukkh, which is a Buddhist silent meditation retreat center. It is located an hr. outside of Surratthani, which is in south Thailand. This monastery is an international retreat center for people wanting to learn Vippasanna meditation and Buddhism. It is located in the middle of a beautiful forest 1 1/2 km from civilization, so it is very quiet. Upon my arrival I was interviewed, and accepted. I paid my fee and received a key to my individual room, which looks like a cell, but it faces a lovely garden. In my room was an elevated concrete slab with a bamboo mat on it and a wooden pillow. I am to sleep like the Buddha. Hmmmmm.... I laid on it to try it out, and the pillow was very uncomfortable, but I got use to it, and it became a little comfortable after a while. I was given a sarong to use while I bathe from the water basin; Thai style. Everything is very conservative and simple here.
I was later informed by the staff that besides my daily morning karma: sweeping the breakfast hall for an hr., that I would also lead the 5 a.m. yoga classes for the 80 attendees. OK. This challenge to teach to a group who has taken a vow of silence will teach me to instruct with mindfulness and consideration to preserve the quiet and stillness within. It is the only opportunity I will have to speak in this retreat, other than to the monk from day 3-8 for 15 min. IF I have a problem.
I signed a contract saying I would kill no living things, i.e. mosquitoes, centipedes, ants, etc..., that I wouldn't speak, write, or read for the 10 days, wake up everyday at 4 a.m., and that I would be open minded to the Buddhist teachings, meditations, schedule, and lifestyle, even if it wasn't for me I would at least welcome the experience and try something new.
I can do that. :) 4 a.m. will be hard, but I can do it! Really I can, mom! hahaha!
The retreat center asked that we turn in all cell phones, I-pods, books, and journals, including any other distractions to the staff to be locked in a safe. I did.
The monks tend to an organic garden, and all of our vegetarian meals are from this garden. The food that is not eaten is given to the animals, and the peels and skins left over from the fruit is turned into compost and recycled back into the earth. :) Today for lunch I had coconut water with coconut meat chunks to drink, cabbage and cucumber, and vegetables with rice. It was delicious!
Deciding to do this retreat may seem unusual to many people I know, but I know I am meant to experience this, and after detox I feel ready to cleanse my mind and put it in a peaceful state. They say that if you want to form a new habit you should do something for 21 days for it to stick and take effect. For 7 days during my detox I woke up early, focused on my breath, did yoga and meditated everyday, so after this 10 days that will be 17/21. New healthy habits are forming. :D Oh, and although we cannot speak, we are encouraged to embrace life, become inspired by and notice the little things, and smile often.

Ananda yoga retreat

I arrived in Ko Phangan yesterday and negotiated a cheap fare to the west side of the island from the pier. When I arrived at Ananda I learned that they didn't reserve my room, because they didn't receive my email. One of the cooks in the kitchen took me across the street to a restaurant and haggled a bungalow behind the resort in a beautiful garden for only $200 Baht, and I have my own bathroom, a fridge, and a fan. I was very grateful. The bed is really comfortable as well, so I'm pleased. The owner told me that since I had a beer the day before that I could not begin the 7 1/2 days cleanse that day, because I needed to eat healthy and prepare my body, which is what I did. My friends John and Deidre surprised me by showing up at the resort and booking a palace next door(a palace because it has air-con, a kitchen, and a bathroom with a tub!). They informed me that they were staying an extra 2 days just to hang out with me! :D
That night after my superb organic vegetarian dinner I had to go to the office and watch a video with the other detox beginners, on how to administer a coffee colonic. I was given a packet with info on the detox program, my schedule, and a lubrication cream for my own personal colonic tip and my anus. Yeah, I know, ewww!
Anyway, Last night after my video I followed John and Deidre to their palace, and I taught them Yin yoga. John is a black belt in martial arts, but he cannot do the splits, so I showed him some postures he could practice to prepare his body, and a little partner yoga. I know he can do it. Then I went to sleep, and woke up to the sounds of a women with morning sickness puking in the beautiful garden behind a Buddha statue.
The detox program at Ananda cost me 14,000 Baht.

Here is my detox schedule for the next week:
7:30 a.m. Shake(phyllium and Bentonite)[fibrous bulking agent that sweeps toxic buildup out of the intestine]
8:30 a.m. Yoga(Iyengar style)
9:00 a.m. Herbs (Nutrition and Chomper) [conditions and softens the mucous and plaque and to remove toxic waste from the alimentary canal, organs, and cells. Helps to strengthen the body and pathways of elimination]
10:30 a.m. Yoga is over. Go have a Shake(Psyllium and Bentonite)
12:00 p.m. Herbs(Nutrition and Chomper) and Carrot juice
12:15 p.m. Coffee Colonic
1:05 p.m. Shake(phyllium and Bentonite)
1:15 p.m. Thai massage for detox(1 hr)
3:00 p.m. Herbs(Nutrition and Chomper), Coconut juice, and herbal steam Sauna
4:00 p.m. Optional Yoga
4:30 p.m. Shake (phyllium and Bentonite)
6:00 p.m. Herbs(Nutrition and Chomper)
7:15 p.m. Shake(phyllium and Bentonite)
8:15 p.m. Coffee Colonic
9:00 p.m. Herbs(Nutrition and Chomper)
Flora Grow before bed(provides healthy bacteria as it establishes itself in the bowels while supporting a balanced PH environment)


Day 1: I'm trying to get over my mental cravings to eat. My body isn't hungry because of the supplements. I feel good overall. The colonic session was weird. The power went out while I was in mid-treatment, so the emergency light came on. That didn't interrupt the in and out flow of the session, but it was weird to think that coffee was going in my rectum. They say coffee is the best detoxifying agent, and they say that through the rectum is the only healthy way coffee should enter your body, because it is absorbed by the veins in the portal system and channeled directly into the liver. The caffeine stimulates the liver and the gallbladder to excrete toxins, open bile ducts, and encourage peristaltic action of the intestines. It breaks down accumulated fat in the liver cells, encourages excretion of bile and removes gallstones, and cleans the intestinal walls. After my colonic session, which was a little gross, I received a lovely massage. The woman had a healing touch, and I noticed that when she pressed on my abdomen it felt tender. It has felt tender since my food poisoning episode in Chain Mai 3 months ago. I did not attend the optional yoga session at 4 p.m. because I feel a bit tired, and I suspect I will go to sleep early tonight if John and Deidre don't want to do something, since it's their last day on Ko Phangan. I feel really quiet and contemplative right now, and in my mind I think this detox will not only purge toxins from my physical body, but also old emotional baggage. I hear this experience can be very emotional. I look forward to getting all the junk out and feeling even more healthy inside and out. Some of the people I've met who are on day 7 have said the experience was amazing and very transformative. They are all glad they participated in this experience. I'm lucky to be in such a supportive atmosphere while enduring this.
Feedback: The man who cleans up the colema rooms after each use informed me that 2 people out of the group have unhealthy bodies, when I asked if I was one of them he said yes. That made me upset, because I don't eat a lot of meat, I drink plenty of water, and I exercise regularly. One of my grandmothers died from colon cancer, so I'm glad I made the decision to do this cleanse, because he described my stool as having some leathery rope consistency, which is a mucous plaque. This buildup can cause health problems over time. Also, I learned that in ancient times the digestive track was referred to as the emotional seat, so I'm sure this cleanse will definitely also be an emotional cleanse, besides a much needed physical one.


Day 2: This morning I woke up feeling a little tired and weak, but as soon as I had my shake I felt better. The yoga practice and lecture at this facility is not to my liking. I find it too existential, and I think the two teachers have a lot of arrogance, and one of them I believe to be a sexual predator with the young cute impressionable women. So, I went to my porch and indulged in a lovely personal practice and meditation. I met an older Aussie with a killer headache, so I practice my Thai massage headache therapy on him, and he felt some relief, but with the detox a headache is normal in the beginning. On day 2 the body has 10 times the normal amount of toxins in the bloodstream. This afternoon as I was drinking my delicious coconut juice before my sauna session, I felt a sharp prick on my abdomen, and when I looked down it was a brown centipede! Those are very poisonous. I freaked out!!! I couldn't believe how fast those buggers can run. It didn't bite me luckily. What I felt was its sharp little legs clasping onto my t-shirt. After sauna I felt a little tired, so I went to lay down, and then the weak feeling developed into a headache. The coffee colemas are getting a little easier, but I wouldn't say I enjoy them, but I know they're good for me. Well, this experience is good for me overall, because I have a rash on my arms again, which I think is due to the sun, but the owner also told me it's my liver purging toxins, and that I have a lot to get rid of. That information is keeping me motivated to stick this out, but it's not too hard. I thought it would be.


Day 3: Today I woke up feeling a little tired, but after my shake I felt excellent. The other reason I felt great is because I got to hear from Mark. He called and had such wonderful things to say that I felt elated. All day, in fact, I've had loads of energy, and I've been in positive spirits! :) My personal yoga practice in the garden this morning, was again very beautiful. I felt so connected and authentic in my practice. I realized I needed this little boost, going on holiday, to reconnect me to life, love, and my inner light. I now feel like I have even more to share with my students when I begin teaching again. I feel grounded and supported by energy, friends, and god. After my massage I went into my bungalow to lay down and feel the pranic flow when something hit me: it donned on me that my beloved art that I've been hauling around with me from Angkor Wat, Cambodia was not in my space. Where was it? That jolted me upright immediately, and I ran to the last place I could have left it: The yoga resort restaurant. I inquired about it, and luckily they knew where to find it, and told me they would retrieve it and bring it to me tomorrow. Thank god! The art is rubbings of the Apsara women off the temples of Angkor, and is very sacred to me. I need to be more careful! So, now I have a little bit of a headache, but I just need to relax and breathe. In 20 mins. I go for my sauna, which is my favorite part of the day, in part because it is precluded by fresh coconut juice. YUM! I'm now obsessed by anything coconut! Also, I love saunas so much that I absolutely MUST find a way to have one in my future home! I've loved them since my travels to Scandinavia. Finland specifically! I asked the owner again what to do about the rash on my arms, which he believes has to do with my liver pushing toxins through my skin, and he told me to rub Bentonite on it, which is a volcanic ash from Thailand to further assist pulling the junk out of my skin, and to stay out of the sun for long periods of time. I will apply it after the sauna, and leave it to dry, and then 1 more application an hour before bed, and wash it off in the morning. I really want it to work! :) Although, this rash I've had for a while now. It's frustrating! I have lost a little weight, but that's natural with a program like this. Nothing shocking or unhealthy by any means. Day 3 means just about half way there! Yay!


Day 4: I woke up feeling light headed this morning, but it was again resolved after having my shake. Today was fine overall, but after my massage I felt really light headed, and hallucinated a little, because she did some deep abdominal massage work using her elbow. That was immediately cured after I rested a few moments and then jumped in the pool to do laps. Right now my heart is beating a little fast, and I feel anxious. I'm just trying to breathe deep and relax as much as possible. I find today to be a little emotional like last night. The rash on my arms is still there, and on the Internet I looked it up trying to self diagnose. My unprofessional opinion is that it could be keratosis pilaris. I guess it mostly effects women, and is found in 40% of adults. Heat is suppose to help remove the unstuck hair follicle, so a sauna is very good, or warm tropical climates. I've had this for awhile. I read that it is non-curable. :( However, I can minimize the appearance by keeping the skin moist, using fragrance free or mild soaps, using creams or ointments ofter a bath such as: preparations containing alpha hydroxy acids or cream containing urea.
sigh
okay, well at least I have more to work with here.
Revelation: The coffee colema always makes me uncomfortable and a little anxious. Since the deep massage on my abdomen I felt strange all day. As the colema began I tried to focus on my breath. I used the mantra: Out with the old(exhale), in with the new(inhale). I started to calm. Then I heard my voice inside say: "I love you, Tracy." Suddenly I began crying uncontrollably! It was an extremely intense experience. Over and over this voice said: I love you, Tracy. I continued crying, and then my voice said: You are beautiful, I love you. Everything is going to be okay.
The crying persisted heavily. I was embarrassed that people in the nearby rooms would hear me so I put my hand over my mouth. Why I cried by my inner voice saying this to me I do not know, but I needed to release the suppressed emotions. I brought my attention back to my breath and mantra to calm myself. Over and Over. Finally the tears subsided. Once I was calm and my mind's focus was directed on my mind's eye(the point at the center of my forehead) to remain calm I received a vision.
The vision was of myself filled and surrounded by light. I was smiling. Then I heard my voice again say: I love you, Tracy. I started to cry again, but the vision remain in my mind. Even if I opened my eyes, when I closed them again there I was emanating light and smiling. I couldn't escape the image. Then the light encompassed me in an internal hug. I cried much more, and brought my attention to my breath until the crying subsided. Then The colema was finished. So much came out of me emotionally and physically. I spent a lot of the night very emotional: Crying, journalling, and meditating. I spoke with Mark on the phone afterward, he really calmed me down, and shed some light upon my experience. My sleep that followed was very deep and restful.


Day 5: Today was really great. I had tons of energy, and felt really optimistic. My deep abdominal, foot, and head massage was lovely. I did not feel weak afterward at all. I hallucinated a little, but it quickly passed. In less than an hour though, I have to go in for my coffee colema, and I feel really anxious! My breath is shallow. I'm not consciously aware if it is due to a fear of emotionally breaking down again, but it might be. Although in hindsight my image and experience was gorgeous, it was still so very intense: my release, and it scared me.
I'm just trying to relax.

Day 6: I woke up feeling really angry, irritable, anxious, and emotional! I wanted to punch a punching bag, and when the owner asked me how I was I cried. Of course I excused myself to go to my room and meditate. I felt much better after that! :) I went to visit the owner in his office. He is a lovely older Greek man in perfect shape and is always smiling, who I find I enjoy seeing and speaking to everyday. He seems very genuine and caring. I asked him what is going on with me, how to deal with it, and I told him a little about the experience I had on day 4 in the colema room during the evening. He was very helpful. The rest of the day that followed was really good. I soaked up the heat in the sauna for an hour and a half, and the massage was gorgeous. The lady said I had a lot of healthy energy in my abdomen, and that she could easily feel my pulse everywhere she touched. That evening before the colema session I was not anxious for my first time. When I saw my favorite Aussie: John, he told me he requested a colinder for his session, which is a basket that catches all the junk, so you can see what's coming out of you. Immediately Carmen and I said simultaneously that we wanted one too, then we laughed, and high-fived. Yeah, we're dorks! I got to see what came out that night, and I must say: I look pretty healthy! :) When I tried going to sleep, I again had difficulty quieting my mind. I had too much energy! I sat up in bed and focused on my breath until I slipped into sleep, although it did take an hour.

Day 7: It's my last day! Yay! Well, tomorrow is a half day, but then I get to eat: Fruit. Today is my last day of fasting! Whoo-hoo! I did a lovely yoga session in the morning and had loads of energy. The day itself was nice and flowed well overall. In the evening there was a fire somewhere that emitted a strong smell of smoke too overpowering! It gave me a killer headache. My body is so sensetive right now. I just wanted to take it easy, so I went to the yoga lecture on concentration, but couldn't concentrate, because my head hurt so bad, so I left and laid on the bench by the pool and rocked my head back and forth on the wood to create a soothing massage. When I stopped I felt warm hands on my head, and the inflow of the healing reiki energy. I opened my eyes to see my beautiful friend Veerle(Belgium). I thanked her, and she continued until my headache was completely gone. Thank god! Thank you, Veerle. I want to learn Reiki! Always have. I then went in for my garlic colema. I used a colinder to see if any parasites came out, but thank god, none did. I drank my flora drink, and went to my room to be serenaded by the sound of croaking frogs from the pond. I find in the last couple days I'm tired, but have difficulty falling asleep, but I did fall asleep around 2 a.m.
I can't wait for fruit! :D My body had definitely lost weight. I look forward to the weigh in.

Conclusion: Today is the half day. I had a morning water colema to wash out the garlic, coffee, and etc..., then I drank a flora water which helps to rebalance my colon and intestine. What followed was my favorite part of the day: Fresh Watermelon! Yay! The first taste of real food in a week: YUMMY! John(Australia), Erica(England), and I all took excited pics of one another beaming with delight holding a fork full of this delicious fruit. John and I stayed in the restaurant chit-chatting, as we do. While Erica explored town with her friend, who I learned later was a very toxic person, and they are no longer friends. This experience does shine light on who you are and whom you will chose to surround yourself with. :) Then Lek(staff) brought out our papaya and mango drizzled with yogurt and topped with bee pollen. It was heaven! I felt my knees go weak and my heart melt with the first bite. Truly Divine! Lek warned us to eat slowly, and as previously mentioned: There's no teeth on your insides, so chew slowly to aid in your digestion, and stop when you're full.
Now my diet is in my hands. This whole experience has given me perspective on how I want to create nutrition and lifestyle changes. I'm optimistic and motivated. :)
WEIGHT: Before-163lbs/74kg After-154lbs/70kg So, I lost 9 lbs! I'm sure it will naturally balance out, but MY ideal weight is 150 for my height, which is 5'10ft. tall. My body feels a bit to thin in parts, but it will fill out with food as it should. :D I'm happy with myself as I am though.

Also, I look forward to the next adventure: my intensive 10 day meditation retreat. Doing a detox and getting all the emotional and physical baggage out of me has prepared me for that next challenge, I feel.
After meditation I get the opportunity to be a dula(the person who executes the birth plan to the hospital staff) to Nichole in Bangkok.

Koh Tao

Since I became an advanced diver I have been relaxing on Koh Tao. Yesterday was the world famous full moon party, which is one of the reasons young people come to the gulf central islands. The party was held on Ko Phangan, and I was turned off by the sound of it, and decided not to go. At first the idea seemed appealing, because I'm a curious person, and I do love a good party. But the party is swarmed with 25,000 people and has a reputation of robbery, bartenders or passer by's drugging peoples drinks with hard drugs, people shitting, pissing, puking, and doing-it in the water to the point of extreme pollution and dead fish flooding the beach the following morning. The party mostly consists of young adults in their gap year of college who want to get blitzed out of their brain, and I don't consider that to be a good time. So, I stayed on Koh Tao. It was quiet last night, because everyone was on the other island, the gov't elections were in progress, and there was a wicked storm. My friend Kelly was on Koh Sumui for work, so her husband Rhys and I walked to Sairee beach for the best seafood green curry in the entire world. Then we walked home in the rain laughing it up. Good times.
Tomorrow I leave for Ko Phangan, now that most people have left or will be in their hotels/bungalows recuperating from the madness. On Ko Phnagan is a yoga retreat resort which I'm indulging in for a week. There I will do yoga, meditation, and a detox/cleanse. The 7½-day program: It takes exactly seven days to cleanse the entire bloodstream by fasting, and seven days to thoroughly rid the lymph system of toxins. This program is comprised of seven days of fasting, herbal detox products, colemas to cleanse the colon, 7 one-hour Thai massages, and 7 visits to the herbal steam sauna...That's more my idea of a good time, because it will enhance my professional and personal practice, as well as rebalance my mind and body. To each their own. The next plan is to take an overnight ferry to Suratthani for a 10 intensive Vipassana meditation where I must commit to a vow of silence, service, and contemplation. I'm really looking fw to this! I hear that many people have difficulty sticking it out and leave 5 days in, but upon completion you have an option of allowing a monk to give you a traditional Thai bamboo tattoo. Also, I have to sleep on a concrete slab like the Buddha....Ok, that part I'm not looking fw to, but the experience sounds interesting, and god knows I love trying new things that force me to look at life in new ways.

Australia is no longer going to work out. I am disappointed, but I cannot force what is not meant to be. Although obtaining my visa was a piece of cake. Getting there has proven to be too daunting on my pocketbook. That trip is not affordable for me. Instead I'm using the money I have to spend on my travels in a productive and proactive way: Yoga, meditation, spending time with friends, being a dula to my friend during the birth of her baby boy, and indulging in a 1 mo. intensive Professional Thai massage program outside Bangkok through the Internationally renown and 1st ever Thai massage school: Wat Po. I look fw to seeing the people I love on and after Oct. 1st. :) The right will always surface if we are patient and open.

Koh Nang Yuan

When I arrived in Koh Tao, Rhys was at the pier waiting for me. He helped me get settled in a cheap bungalow, and we made plans to meet Kelly on the Pier at 3 p.m., since that is where she was getting dropped off by a boat from work. I really knew nothing of her new job, but couldn't wait to find out!
I napped, showered, and met them at the pier. We immediately went for a tropical drink on the beach at the Sea Mermaid Bar. Once we sat down Kelly asked me when I was going to get my advanced open water diving certificate. I told her I wanted to..... She said, "check this out! I now work as a dive instructor and underwater photographer on what's rated as 1 of the top 10 best dive islands in the world according to Dive magazine. It is the only island in the world where 3 islands are joined by a pristine ivory white sand beach, and you can have the best dive of your life anywhere around the island. The only thing on the island is a 5 star dive hotel with gorgeous views in every direction. I can hook you up with a free bungalow at this 5 star resort, and sneak you free food. The only thing you have to pay for is the course, but I can get you 20% off with my discount. The course is 2 days, but I'll get you the bungalow for 5 days, and you can snorkel, book extra fun dives, do yoga, and meditate in your free time. How does that sound?!" :)
What could I say to such a generous offer? I said: Yes Please! :D I want that more than anything. Thank you!
I'm sharing the room with her friend, who is a really cool Canadian girl, named Corrie.

I was given a book to study with hw to be completed before each dive. I also had to choose 3 specialties besides the required deep dive and navigation dive. I chose a night dive, naturalism, and underwater photography. Yay!

Yesterday morning I met Rhys and Kelly at the dive shop by 7:30 a.m. We boarded the boat with all of our equipment, and set off. I had to set up my own tank, which I haven't done in 10 yrs, and after being shown once I had it down! On the way out to the deep dive I started to feel anxious. I initially learned to dive to overcome a fear of deep water, and although I've been on 12 dives and my fear is much less, it is still there until I stick my head under the water and see the wonders and beauty of the ocean. You see, I get nervous when I can't see underneath the surface. I began to cry, and Kelly put her arms around me until I felt calm. Then I was excited for the new adventure, and I was happy.
We went down to 30 m/100 ft. for a max of 20 mins. I saw a free flowing moray eel, which is rare during the daytime, many different types of fish, a gray reef shark, and amazing corral and reef formations. Wow!
The 2nd dive was a navigation dive. I had to use the natural environment and a compass to know where I am at all times, and navigate under the water, which is a very useful tool to reduce anxiety, and to avoid feeling disoriented. I passed with flying colors. I noticed when I'm challenged that I put everything I have into the challenge and excel. Maybe I'm slightly competitive, or maybe I just love to be challenged to keep my mind sharp. ;) We navigated around 3 large underwater pentacles and saw amazing colorful fish and coral! We swam between narrow crevasses, and I mastered my buoyancy! My dad would be proud. I finally realized that I was naturally inhaling to go over the coral, and exhaling to gently drop down. That use to be the most difficult part of diving for me, and now I'm a fish! No gills yet though. ;)

When we docked the pier I learned that that night I was going on my night dive. Wow! I couldn't believe it. I was tired, but amped at the same time.
That night we suited up, loaded the equipment on our backs, and walked out into the dark water. We swam out to the reef and dropped down into the darkness. I wasn't scared at all. I felt like James Bond! I learned that if you cover your light and wave your hand around that you will create phosphorescent light in the water from the particulates that you stir up. I saw a free flowing moray eel, a black tip shark, hermit crabs the size of my head, 2 blue spotted manerays, beautiful coral reefs and little red worms attracted to the light that you could wave over the tubular coral and they would be devoured and spit out looking like steam. It was so cool! The current was strong though, and after awhile it was tiring.

This morning I met at the dive shop at 7:30 after a delicious 5 star breakfast. We grabbed our gear and headed off towards the s.w. part of the island. This was my favorite dive, and it was my naturalist dive, which is understanding and respecting the symbiosis of the underwater world and being able to identify the life that you see. I saw so many gigantic grouper fish(4 ft. long!), and I even saw an enormous Napoleon rasse. This site was so gorgeous and the visibility was excellent! Unbelievable, really. I saw so much. Yay!
On my last dive I swam around and took pictures. Unfortunately the visibility wasn't so great, but I got some lovely pictures. I think my favorite is of the anemone fish nestled in the purple anemone. He looks so happy. :)

I booked a fun dive for tomorrow at 5:15 a.m. for a feisty shark dive. At this time no one is out there, and the sharks are most prevalent and active. I can do this now as an advanced diver, and I'm only 13 dives away from being able to begin my master course, which I decided I will do. I LOVE scuba diving. There's nothing like being inside the mysterious and beautiful abyss.
My life is changed forever. I was thinking today that if I decide to go back to school I'd like to get my degree in ecology.... maybe. :)
hahaha!

Thailand round 2

Wow, so returning to the lifestyle of Asian chic was quite a contrast from the poverty in Cambodia. When I arrived to Bkk I was absolutely floored! I met some friends on the bus: Daniella(German) who I shared accommodations with, and John(English). The 3 of us spent 8 hrs at our favorite mall in BKK: MBK. Yes, 8 hrs! This place is that amazing.
On the way to our room the 2ND day I ran into an Irish friend from Halong Bay, Vietnam, and invited her out with us that night. While I was getting ready Nichole's friend: Ingrid, contacted me and we all met up at 10 p.m., completely dressed up, and we went out to a bar for the 4th of July to an American cover band bar. I had a great time. I even befriended a 60 yr old bearded man who looked like a member of ZZ top, and invited him over to our table for drinks. He was intensely spiritual, I found out, and had lived in India for 20 yrs, amongst many other cool places. He was quirky and made my friends chuckle, but I liked him a lot, so much in fact, that he and I sat in front of my guesthouse talking until 5 a.m.

Ingrid and I met Nichole and Ben in the Women's facility at the BKK international Hospital for her monthly prenatal checkup. Her due date is Aug. 16Th! We drove to Hua Hin, about 2 hrs south, and stayed in Ben's father's house, which is a gigantic mansion in the middle of the jungle. This home was incredible. I loved staying there with the sarcastic English in a comfy room with Ingrid. We had A/C, a huge bed with clean sheets(no worries for bed bugs), a stream shower, clean water, and healthy food in the fridge! OMG! The next morning Nichole, Ingrid, Ben's new mother in law: LoLa, and I saw a cobra in the backyard, and a bird swooped down and tried to eat it, but missed. It was the 3rd cobra I've seen in the wild on my travels. :)
Us three girls cooked a 4 course meal for Steve(Ben's dad) and LoLa to show our appreciation. It was delicious. I was in charge of the Boiled Beef stew with veggies and dumplings. This took me all day! It was such a pleasure to have a kitchen to cook in, and have regular veggies that weren't fried.
I'm so sick of fried food!
The fresh salad was my favorite. :)
I enjoyed my time there with my friends, but the next day I needed to leave and meet some friends in Koh Tao, so us girls went out and got pampered at the spa, ate good food, shopped at the night market, and then they dropped me off at the bus by 11 p.m.

I arrived in Koh Tao at 9 a.m. tired but happy. Rhys met me at the pier and helped me get all checked in to an affordable bungalow on the beach. I took a much needed nap. He, Kelly, and I are all meeting at the pier at 3 p.m. for a day of fun. I met Kelly and Rhys in Nihn Bihn, Vietnam and traveled with them until Mui Ne, so for 3 weeks. They're my dive master friends who I'm very fond of. John and Diedre are here as well, and we're all meeting for dinner at 7 p.m. tonight. I'll probably move in with them to cut down costs tomorrow and throughout my travels to Ko Phangan and the full moon party(world renown chaos party on the beach).
Kelly is going to teach me Poi, which is fire dancing.
I'm looking forward to getting the partying out of my system before my yoga and meditation retreat in 2 weeks.
I'm happy, but a little concerned about Australia. The tickets there are so expensive!
I'll keep you all informed.

xo

Angkor Wat in Siem Reap

Siem Reap reminds me of Chiang Mai in Thailand, because it is a small spiritual city with a lot to offer. This place is on the up and up! If Cambodia plays their cards right they can use the tourist interest in Angkor Wat to rebuild their economy and save the people from devastating poverty. I have spent the last unforgettable 3 days exploring the ancient jungle ruins of Angkor Wat. I decided to spiral from the outer most point into Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is composed of 256 temples.
Day 1: I commissioned a handsome young Cambodian man named Pari to be my motorbike driver and take me out to Kbal Spean. It was a long and gorgeous hike through the jungle to reach this small waterfall and ancient carvings. In the rock alongside the waterfall were carvings of Buddha, Shiva, Vshnu, Lakshmi, elephants, and lotus flowers. After that I visited a large ancient(dried up) pool with 4 opposing carved stone spouts, each one had a different face: 1 horse, 1 lion, 1 elephant, and 1 human face. In the center of the pool was a stone fountain with beautiful and elaborate carvings. I learned that this pool was rumored to cleanse away all sins of anyone who bathed in it. Supposedly, Las Vegas is building an Angkor Wat hotel and Casino and their pool design will be mirrored after this ancient site. The thought makes me want to gag, but people probably think that's cool, I dunno. :p
Anyway, then I stopped off at the Land mine museum. It is funded by the Ottawa group. Gotta love the Canadians for funding this much needed relief fund. There are still over 5 million active land mines strewn about the jungles of Cambodia, and the majority of victims are farmers and children. There is one man: Aki Ra(a Cambodian man with a Japanese name) who worked for the Khmer army and laid down thousands of land mines, and use to feel they were good, because they would protect him and provide food. Now he is aware of how devastating they are and has taken on the duty of removing these land mines. This Ottawa relief fund supports the efforts of him and his group while showcasing his altruistic work in this museum. It was really inspiring and educational.
The last stop of my Angkor tour for that day was Banteay Samre. I walked down a long dirt rd. while children offered me scarves. Scarves?!?!?! It's like 110 degrees out. Why don't they sell fans?! I asked them that, and they laughed at me! :p
I walked through vaulted temple rooms made of intricately carved stone and eventually I found the center. There I stumbled into a temple and met a lovely old man named Mahasra who lit incense and a candle and asked me to pray with him in front of a tomb to Buddha. I did, and it was a beautiful moment. He wrapped a red string around my right wrist and wished me good luck.
Day 2: Pari dropped me off on a beautiful bridge lined with semi-broken Buddha statues that led me to a gate and archway. I walked under a giant arch with 4 Buddha heads, each one facing a different direction. Preah Khan temple was at the end of a dirt rd., and on the rd. were 3 musicians playing traditional Khmer music. I arrived to the dilapidated temple. The base was overgrown with moss, many of the walls were broken due to the surrounding jungle imposing itself upon the ancient ruins, and the horizontal bas relief sculptures on every inch of the temples had my head whipping around in every direction while I soaked in the aesthetics. In the back was my favorite tree in Cambodia. It was growing through one of the rooms crushing it with its roots which sent its tendrils to plummet into the soil anywhere it could reach.
I then wandered through some smaller temples: Ta Som, East Mebon, and Pre Rup
Ta Som had a giant smiling buddha face on the front of the temple, and on the back was a giant tree growing through the rock that created a perfect doorway through the roots. East Mebon looked a little like some of the Mayan ruins I explored in Belize and the Yukon. It had 3 main rooms ascending up a tall stairway lined with lion sculptures. Inside the center room was a Buddha statue under a gold umbrella. Pre Rup means 'Turning the body,' it looked like East Mebon with the 3 towers sitting on a tall pyramid foundation of stone with a tall stairway, but the ground level had ruins of ancient cremation ovens. This is dated 12th century.
Day 3: I explored the temples of Angkor Thom which is a massive ruin site! This site is famous for its hundreds of smiling Buddha sculptures on the exterior temple walls. It is an impressive site. Outside is the Terrace of elephants, which is a long wall with hundreds of elephant carvings and sculptures leading towards or away from(depends your perspective) Angkor Thom. Pari then took me to Ta Prohm/The Tomb Raider temple. Here is the beautiful mossy temples completely being torn apart from the massive jungle trees. The carvings are mostly of Lakshmi and Buddha. This was a beautiful place to explore and take pictures! :)
...and last but not least..*drum roll*...Angkor Wat! Let me first say that I'm glad I saved this for last, because it is so massive and impressive, especially combined with Angkor Thom, that had I started with these temples I probably wouldn't have appreciated the other smaller temples as much for their individual charm. Angkor Wat would dwarf anything because it's so magnificent in size. It's a fortress! The rooms which attach to one another seem to go on for infinity, each room is a place of worship. I could have wandered the central courtyard around the central temple for days just gazing at the carvings. The carvings depicted ancient stories, which I tried to interpret, and then I checked my guide book for confirmation. hahaha! I was usually wrong, but it's fun to create your own interpretation.
In one of the interior corridors, as I was trying to find the exit to Angkor Wat, I saw the contrast of a monks cloth to the grey stone wall. It was beautiful. He saw me and invited me to sit with him. After conversing a short while he told me he had no property yet, but that was because he's in University, and that he would like me to be his girlfriend. He said that I should stop by his temple the following day and he would teach me meditation and the teachings of the Buddha in his room. Later when I told Pari about this he got upset, and said Monks are not allowed to touch a girl, make eye contact, or have a girlfriend! Shame on that naughty monk. His name is Rous, and he's sweet, but I did not go to his room for private instruction. hahahaha!
When I walked the long rd. of the West exit of Angkor Wat I asked many people to take my picture, because this is a famous phot-op, but alas no one could take a proper picture without it being crooked or having a finger in the way, so I had a good chuckle and had Pari take my back to the Jasmine GH for some R & R.
The last 3 nights I've had a very restless sleep. Every time I close my eyes I receive flashes of Angkor temples, movement through jungles, pictures of the carvings and sculptures pass through my mind, and it all feels like a whirlwind. It's very intense!

I will never forget this place, and it was worth the journey to come to Cambodia to see the Angkor temples and walk through the jungles. I feel I will reflect upon this place sporadically with adoration throughout my life. It was very special to me. :)

I will leave Cambodia in a few days, after I do some volunteer work, and I will return to Thailand.

Cambodia

Entering into the country of Cambodia is the easiest thing I've done aside from closing my eyes and welcoming sleep. On the drive I had a strong feeling that I've been here before, and I don't know what that means yet, but the overwhelming feeling of familiarity made me feel at peace.
When I arrived in Phnom Penh at the busy bus station, I locked eyes with a sweet tuk tuk driver and had him take me to the Lazy Fish Guesthouse. When I arrived I smelled marijuana, and noticed all the lazy stoners strewn about watching Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. What the...? I entered the community porch overlooking a gorgeous view of the lake, and saw a beautiful sunset. There are no mountains, and I've never in my life seen a place so flat and expansive.
I checked into my $3 room and showered. After getting some food and a tall beer, I finally relaxed some. I started to notice the energy of the guests, the staff, and the city in general, and the energy felt really dark. The energy made me feel uncomfortable and anxious. I had a strong intuition that this city is full of pain. I thought of rape and pedophilia, and became disgusted and upset. I realized all of these people were trying to numb out because they felt it too.
I went to sleep early after finishing my new Paul Coelho book.
I arranged the same tuk tuk driver to take me around the following day and show me the sites. I couldn't understand where he wanted to take me, but he understood that I wanted to experience the culture since I had only just arrived. The first place he took me was to the Museum of Genocide, which I didn't know until I walked in. The lady said: "$2 USD," and handed me a pamphlet. I read where I was and what it entailed. It used to be a school but was turned into a prison when the Khmer Rouge took over and threw everyone out of the town. This is where they tortured 12,000 educated men and women before killing them there or on the killing fields. The museum holds instruments of torture and photographs of the dead, some clearly showing how they died (the most shocking being the guy who's stomach was cut out while alive, so the guards could eat his liver). The women's block had barbed wire covering the entire outside to ensure the women didn't commit suicide after being raped by the guards. Since they didn't want to waste bullets, the babies were impaled on a large bloody spike. When I read this information I asked myself what I wanted to gain from my experience in Cambodia. How I would choose to inform myself about the culture and history. Now, I know this existed, and after visiting the war museum in Saigon/Hochimin city I am aware of the gruesome reality of war, and the after effects of Agent Orange 2 generations later, but I did not want to pay money to experience this gore!
I walked out to my tuk tuk driver and told him this is not what I want out of my experience in Phnom Penh. I will not pay money for this! He nodded and took me to the Nat'l museum where I looked at paleolithic art from 6-13th cen. art salvaged from the temples. It was interesting to learn about the Indian influence in art and religion. I didn't know that Cambodian's worshiped Vshnu and Siva.
After lunch I'm going to visit the Grand Palace and then head back to Lazy Fish and kill time with my new book(motorcycle diaries), and chat with some random people until sleep time. I have to be ready for my 6:30 a.m. departure to Siem Reap. Angkor Wat awaits! I've got to get the... out of this city!

25/06/2008
I'm in Siem Reap, only 6 km away from Angkor Wat. I will wake up early and explore the site,
and then I will decide whether or not I still feel I need to leave Cambodia a.s.a.p. I'm so excited to be able to see Angkor! :D I've been waiting a long time for this opportunity.

I miss Mark... sigh. He's my rock. No matter what I experience with other people or through my travels I still think of him fondly. I still want it to be him.
am i crazy? no, I don't think so. He let me go.

Saigon

Saigon/Hochimin City is a city of 8 million people, most of which are on a motorbike wizzing through the city at any given time. Try crossing a crosswalk... Ummm, yeah, very difficult! :o The trick is to look straight ahead as you enter the chaos and allow it to move around you. Maybe this is symbolic of life.
I arrived here from Mui Ne late last night, and had very little trouble finding a cheap guesthouse, and a yummy meal. I was sad to leave my Iirsh kite surfing friends in Mui Ne, especially Paul who was my boyfriend for the week I was there. I mean, how can you have a relationship while you're traveling? It's especially difficult while you're following your dreams, and you don't want to prolong them for an interesting beautiful man who you share a soul connection with in a sticky spot. A sticky spot is a town that you get very comfortable in and end up spending a lot of time. Paul for example took a vacation to Mui Ne from Ireland and ended up staying there for 8 months and becoming a wicked kite surfing instructor, but he returns to Belfast on Tuesday. You can't help falling in love with Mui Ne, because it's such a wonderful place! :) I will return there.
Now I'm in Saigon handling some business. When I left my guesthouse this morning in a sleepy daze I looked into a cafe, and who did I see? My Finnish friend Elina! I run into this girl everywhere. What's funny is that she met a guy who gave her the same book Paul gave me: The Alchemist. What an amazing book! I loved it so much that I read it twice, and plan to find a bookstore today so I can buy more books by this same author.
Elina and I are going to check out some war museums today after I run some errands, and then she may join me into Cambodia tomorrow.
Initially I was going to take a boat along the Mekong River into Cambodia, because I heard several horror stories of people on buses being driven into the middle of mine fields and threatened to be abandoned there while being conned for more money, and obviously I wanted to avoid this scenerio. This happened to a few of my friends. So, I wanted to take the boat tour. It seemed fun and safe for a woman traveling solo. However, I don't want to spend 3 days on a boat! I did 2 days on the Mekong from Thailand into Laos, and it was beautiful, but uncomfortable. So, I'm going to take a bus through a reputable company, and pay a little more to get me to Phenom Penn in 7 hrs. I will arrive during the day, and check into the Lazy Fish guesthouse on the river.
Every experience prepares you for the next...

Mui Ne

I love it here in Mui Ne! This town is a small bubble of coolness. hahahaha! You know what I mean! As soon as I arrived and got settled I was invited to a party with Cristina by some Irish guys, one of whom turned 30, and everyday since we've been chillin together on the beach day-night. These Irish and Aussie guys range from 26-34 yrs old, and they're all Kite Surfing instructors, so they're very carefree and real. Yes, they like to party and I've heard crazy stories about high-season, but they are some of the most grounded people I've met so far. Most of them were wind surfers who came here on holiday and never left once they were introduced to this budding extreme sport. The kite surfing is a little too pricey for me at this time in my life, because of my big upcoming move to Australia in a couple months, so I have to budget still, but the sport is relatively new and is booming there too, so I'll eventually try it. It's amazing to see these men surf the waves and barely flip the handle of this giant kite to fly through the air long distances and do flips and figure 8's. What a rush! My favorite person I've been spending the most time with is a 34 yr old kite surfer from Belfast, Ireland named Paul. He's so intelligent and relaxed. Considering that he was living in Belfast during the riots and bombings of northern Ireland. I've been here 4 days, and I'll stay another 3 for Paul's B-day, and then I have to rush through Saigon into Cambodia, because my visa is about to expire!
I just received word that Pat Bray is working on his passport, Vaccs, and organizing his vacation time to travel out to Thailand while I'm there. It will be so great to see him. Omg! I miss my friends, and I want nothing more than to share this experience with those I care about.

take a breath and relax

I went back to the dive shop for the 3rd time asking to speak with someone who could translate my statement into Vietnamese for the police department. The owner was suppose to meet me at a certain time, and blew me off, but the dive master was present, and he ordered the shop girls to take me to the police department and help me in any way they could, so that I could receive the paperwork needed for my insurance company to reimburse me the stolen $200 dollars. It turns out that Vietnamese cops are corrupt, big surprise there(!), and that it would take a lot of time and money to do an investigation. I told the girls, the dive master, and my friend that I don't want an investigation since I'm leaving early the next day. All I want is the official paperwork/police report. Well, after a lot of time being jerked around by the police, and feeling frustrated by the owner not taking this crime seriously, the girls, dive master Mike, and I did finally translate my statement, with an acknowledgement from the company typed with a certified stamp. This is at least something official that I can take to the American Embassy in Ho Chi Man City/Saigon.

Mike gave me a beer, and he and I had a lovely chat about the event and life. I was starting to relax, and feel more settled in my body again. He left Ireland 6 yrs ago and has been traveling non-stop, and has had many crazy experiences along the way. The owners wife is the one who did the translation, she is Vietnamese, and her name is My(Mee), and she told me that I should go with Mike to Spot bar and whatever I wanted was 'on the house.' She also promised me that her husband would meet me there in 1/2 hr.

1 hr later he strutted through the door. The 4 of us went to a private table where I received an empty apology. If there's anything I've learned over the last 3 yrs. it''s that actions speak louder than words (Thanks Mark :) I learned a lot of valuable lessons from that wonderful man). Let me describe the Blue Vietnam Dive shop owner: He's my an impressive height of 6'3(like Lee), he has narrow set eyes, a large thick nose, with thin bird lips, his hair is kinky and shaved underneath like the early 90's skater look, which makes his hair stick out to the sides, but it's flat on top. He is about 29 yrs old, has olive skin, and a thick French accent. I looked him dead in the eyes after his empty apology and reminded him of his promise to meet me at a set time, described how I'm been jerked around by his company over the last couple days, which reflects him, described to him what had happened, how it should have been handled, and how I'm thoroughly unimpressed by his unprofessional actions and demeanor. I told him how I have connections in the diving world and how if it wasn't for Mike and My that I would do everything in my power to ruin the reputation of his business, but that I feel justified by plan B, and I will go to Saigon and do the best I can with what I have. He left the table to pout and returned to apologize after Mike had a private talk with him around the corner. They returned and ordered a round of tequila shots to smooth things over.

I feel as though the situation was corrected to the best of every one's ability. All that could have been done was done. :)

After a 6 hr. bus ride I arrived in Mui Ne. The landscape of Irish green rice fields cradled by enormous lavender mts. was an awe inspiring sight to see. The motorbike taxi drivers awaiting the tourists at the bus stop were fair in their prices, and I found Cristine at the Mellow guesthouse with no problems. She and I just enjoyed a delicious seafood meal, and tonight we are going to meet some people she met on her bus. She has a special ticket, so we couldn't travel together. I made some new Vietnamese friends: Quc and Bee. I hope that tomorrow Cristine and I can explore around this gorgeous little beach town. There is a relaxed attitude here. I like it, but I don't want to stay in Vietnam much longer. It hasn't been easy for me here! I don't expect Cambodia to be a walk in the park by an means, but after being hit by a lot of adversity a person starts to crave some peace. Near Mui Ne is the largest reclining Buddha in Vietnam, dragon fruit fields, an impressive red canyon that looks similar to Brice nat'l park, white and yellow sand dunes("don't eat that yellow snow"-Frank Zappa), and a clean white sand beach.

I hope the wind pattern with allow us to go Kite surfing tomorrow, which doesn't look likely. Worse case scenerio, she and I will take a jeep or motorcycle tour around the Mui Ne area to explore these awesome sites before I bolt through Saigon(of course handling the embassy stuff, and getting dollars for the Cambodian border), to then take the Mekong River into Cambodia arriving in Phenom Penn.

sigh.

I have so many mixed feelings lately, so Mui Ne is about re-centering before moving on.