The 4,000 islands

Nha Tran is where we were dropped off by the bus, and all of the passengers carefully climbed into a large motorized covered canoe with all our over-sized heavy backpacks, so we could commute to the islands. There were many stops, because everyone wanted to go somewhere different. I decided to take the advice of a lovely French girl named Meliny that I met in Luang Prabang, and head to Don Det. Elina joined me. We were careful not to plummet into the water when we exited the canoe and stepped foot on a magnificent and primitive jungle island. We weren't sure which way to go, but I knew I wanted to stay at her bungalow recommendation: Paradise Bungalows.
We finally found it 10 mins. later and were greeted by the owners, and some fun and boisterous guests, "You gotta stay here, Dam is the best cook, and this place is amazing!" Well, OK! :D
There were 5 private stilted bungalows situated over the Mekong River with the most impressive views, and our own hammocks on our decks. Elina and I had our own bungalows with a suite setup, which was fun. The cost was 15,000 kip a day($1.80). Yeah, no kidding! There is no electricity on the island until 6p.m. and lasts until 10 p.m., which is when everything closes. The 3 guests who we initially met told us about their run-ins with 2 poisonous cobras on the trail near my bungalow, and the owner Dam told us if we see one that we need to kill it. Wow! A little scary! I did end up seeing 2 snakes myself! The island was buzzing with life: lots of bugs, snakes, water buffalo, goats, massive spiders, geckos..., and what I found interesting was that all the life truly does live in harmony together: The chickens, cats, dogs, and people. Children have the most amazing freedom and are so fortunate to be raised in this environment. I saw 2 boys every morning take their Dad's motorized canoe out on the Mekong River and shark through the islands like pirates, and sometimes they would whip out a big stick and attack the bushes, or visit their fort on the private island opposite my bungalow. I also saw them fish and walk around barefoot carrying a lizard or what-not. The children made me smile when their high pitch chipmunk voices would excitedly be discussing something amongst themselves on the dirt road behind my bungalow. I would hear them from my bed or hammock and think: These kids are so happy and free. They work hard, and they play hard. This is the life!
My days were spend exploring the waterfalls on the islands, crossing the bridge to the other island, eating good food, reading, chillin in the hammock, making friends, walking around appreciating the rice fields and wildlife, etc...I ran into my friend Clara, Paco, and befriended Fatia(French), so in the evenings we would go to the rasta bar to mingle, play charades with friends by candlelight, or just stay up taking on my balcony enjoying the view. The view was gorgeous! Every night it would rain a little, and then the bugs would buzz us to sleep.
One afternoon after the rain, Clara, Elina, and I were enjoying a delicious lunch on the river when I exclaimed that the heat was dreadful and I was sick of my hair. I said for the last 3 months I've wanted to chop it all off. Clara said, "Well, why don't you..?" I looked at her, then Elina, and decided that I had no reason not to. "Lets do it."
We all ran over to my balcony, and Clara cut my hair to the top of my neck. It was a pretty cute bob, but needed touch up when I got off the island. When I got dressed that evening to head towards the town a beautiful Israeli man walked past me and gave my a smile that melted me, and that smile made me feel beautiful with my short hair. It's funny how a single smile from a man can make you feel confident. ;)
We had a few days left on the island, but ran out of money, and found out there was no ATM on the island, and we had to take the canoe to Nha Tran, and a local bus all the way back to Pakse to pull out money to pay our bill. We made it to the bus stop just fine. No problems, but found out we were 9 km outside of town. The tuk tuk drivers swarmed around us like blood thirsty mosquitoes trying to over charge us to take us to town. It's understandable though. We went with the wrong guy apparently, because he drove us to town, took our money, and then we found out we still had to travel an additional 2 km before we were at the ATM. I stood there looking at him with disgust when he tried to charge us another 20,000 kip a piece to take us to where he originally said he would take us. He took advantage us, and totally screwed us over. We began the miserable walk through the blaring sun and heat towards Pakse, but were still lost. Noone spoke English to assist us, and I was still irritated by that little Laos tuk tuk driver, who at that moment drove up next to us again and tried to negotiate a fare. What nerve! I told him to Fuck off, and we kept walking. Yes, I can be very stubborn, and I didn't need to handle the situation that way. I realized later I was hungry, and that fueled my anger. We approached a college and walked towards a table of young giggly Laos girls. They pulled up their motorbikes and took us to the bank, and wanted nothing in return. What a blessing! :)
After lunch and bumming around for a few hrs. we paid a tuk tuk driver to take us back to the bus station. They tried to rip us off, but we called them out, and told them what we would pay. The agreed, and laughed.
After more people arrived they loaded us all up in a large tuk tuk-van, but then we sat there for 1 1/2 hrs while they drank beer. Finally we left! It rained on us, and it was cold. I sat next to an old lady who chewed the infamous beetle-nut, and her teeth were stained black. It's a painkiller for toothaches and other things. She would spit out red dye that looked like blood over the side of the moving bus. The Laos love to pick their noses and spit. :o
The ride should have lasted 2 1/2 hrs like before, but was dragged out for 4 hrs. by dropping off and picking up people and produce, dead chickens, rice, etc. In the end it was only Elina and I on the bus. It was dark, and the driver stopped in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road telling us to get out, because we could walk to the destination, that it was up ahead. Elina said: "Then drive a bit farther and take us there!" He grumbled and started driving on. He drove another 35 mins before we arrived back in Nha Tran! What a jerk! When we arrived the town was empty because everyone was in the temple celebrating Buddha's b-day. When the driver wanted to collect the money from us he tried to charge us more than what we agreed upon. I made a scene by telling him that he was lucky to get a dime because he tried to abandon us in the middle of nowhere! In the end we paid the agreed upon initial price, took gum as a peace offering, and tried to find a canoe ride back to Don Det.
There were two vulture kids trying to take advantage of our situation by raping us with prices. I was still irritated, but mostly hurt and emotional, so I asked Elina if we could walk by the river and look for someone else. We sat, and I calmed down. I saw a man on our way back up the hill to town, and asked him for a ride on canoe to the island. He didn't haver a canoe, but walked up the hill with us and then disappeared when the kids pounced us. Just then when the 4 of us stood with our arms crossed in a stubborn stand-off a man on a motorcycle pulled up, offered us a ridiculously low price to take us to the island, and we gratefully followed him to his boat, and rode in peaceful silence under the moon light to Don Det. Out of nowhere Elina asked me if today reminded me of the Bhagavad Gita(She is aware that I've read it 5 times so far on my trip), and at first I said no, but then realized it was a definite Yes, and I felt humbled.
When we paid him I wanted him to have my bracelet as a symbol of gratitude, which he graciously accepted.

The next day I bought my bus fare to Vietnam. I spent that day relaxing. That night I met 2 Chilean girls and we chilled on my balcony with Clara. One girl told me how she contracted a parasitic worm in her foot while in Cambodia. She showed me her foot, and sure enough down the length of her big toe and curled up her second toe was the scar of a giant worm. It was killed with dry Ice and removed by a small incision and tweezers. When she stood to leave she fainted and smacked her face on a chair. We were able to bring her back to consciousness, and she was ok just low in electrolytes. Yes, it's really that hot!
Crazy things happen.
On my last day Elina and I rented bikes and rode around exploring the island on new undiscovered paths. We stopped for lunch, got rained in for a bit, but then rode towards our bungalow and met a cool guy with a handlebar mustache from the UK. The 3 of us hitched a ride to a small private island, packed a snack and a few beers, a guitar, and spent the afternoon singing and playing the guitar on our own private island. By the time we got to our sandwiches they were covered in ants in sections, but what we couldn't wipe off we ate. The ants tasted good. hahaha!
That night was my last night, and I enjoyed it with my friends on my balcony with the immaculate view.

I said goodbye to Elina after breakfast, and began my journey into Vietnam.