The last round of Thailand

I unfortunately have to bid adieu to Thailand tomorrow morning, as I make a long journey back home. Over the last 5 days I have thoroughly enjoyed my remaining days in this spiritually rich beautiful country. It took me around 12 hrs by bus and ferry one way to reach my secret sanctuary: Silvery Moon Bungalows. I had written them ahead of time asking if I could have a bungalow on the beach, because I needed to relax. I hadn't heard back from them and was anxious that I had no reservation, wondering what I would do... As I walked through the punishing sun radiating down upon me from its zenith after exiting the pier on Koh Phangan island, with all of my luggage, I finally stopped for a drink of water. A young Aussie pulled up besides me on his motorbike, and asked if he could help me, free of charge. I thought: Thank you, god. :) "Yes, please!" He took me to my favorite place in the whole world were Beat and Koi(the owners) were relaxing in the hammock awaiting my arrival. They remembered me, since I've been there 4 times in 8 months. hahahaha! Beat declared, we're giving you the best bungalow, right on the beach with the best view. "Wow, Korp Khun Ka!"
There was only one other guest. A polish girl who I spent the entire sunset and evening talking to on the beach and over dinner. She and I have the same taste in independent films. We're also both Gemini women traveling alone, so we had many stories to share. She was in the middle of a 3 month trip, and I am on my last leg of the journey in Asia. She left the next morning, and I wished her a safe trip. She's a good person. :)
The next 2 days I spent alone snorkeling, reading on the beach or in my hammock, walking, eating Koi's amazing food(the best in the world!), doing yoga, and meditating. I'm reading one of the most amazing books I've ever read: The Autobiography of a yogi. The second best book of all time is Papillon! :)
Yesterday I awoke to appreciate the beach and breakfast one last time. I thanked Koi who made me promise to come back, and I had to sign the book again. It's like a yearbook, because it gives guests an opportunity to express their gratitude creatively in a thick drawing book. Beat took my heavy bag on his motorbike, and I climbed up the jungle mountain. He and I arrived around the same time. I didn't have to wait long for a tuk tuk taxi to arrive and take me to the pier, where I caught my ferry to Surratthani. Then I had a 2 hr. wait for the bus. While I waited, I befriended an Argentinian man over a small portion of cow pat gai(chicken fried rice), and gave him a special coin after he openly expressed his new found love of Buddhism.
The bus arrived.
We boarded the bus for an 8 hr. journey. While I was sleeping someone robbed me of all my money which I was going to use to float me until I arrived in the states. I was depressed. :(
I thought I was so careful too!
grumble.
sigh.
The bus dropped us off at 3:30 a.m. in the middle of nowhere, but I recognized the location vaguely, and directed the Argentinian and I to Kho San rd. I pointed him to a guest house that takes dollars, and I found my favorite place around the corner. They only had one room left, and it was on the 6th floor. My tired undernourished body didn't feel as though it could make the climb, but you get into a fixed gaze, and your legs just keep moving, because they have to. It's almost like you detach from your body. Mark called to ask me how I was. I asked him for a minute where I could vent about my day. He listened, and then we just chatted away until his ph card was sucked dry, and my phone died.
I slept light.
This morning it donned on me immediately when my eyes flickered open that it is my last day in Southeast Asia. Tomorrow morning I will board a plane and make my departure to Taipei, San Fransisco, and then Phoenix. The journey is 26 hrs long, and then I can see my loving family, my dear kit-cat, and my friends. :)
I enjoyed a delicious plate of tropical fruit and had a coconut to wash it down. Yum!
Today I'm going to get pampered, see Paulo tonight and go out to our favorite Blues club, and then try to sleep. It will be difficult, because I know my stomach will be doing flips.
I know the adventure is not ending, just taking a new form.
I have so many new experiences and insights that I'm taking to the west.
My life is forever changed, and I'm grateful to god, this opportunity, this adventure, my intuition and will power, and the support of the people who love me and the people I've met along the way. I cannot help but smile when I think about some of the wild experiences I've encountered: Tracy the tiger tamer, chillin with monks, cliff diving over a waterfall in Laos with monks, riding elephants, hiking volcanoes, scuba diving in Vietnam/Thailand/Indonesia, getting robbed 4 times, completing Thai massage/foot reflexology and cooking school, being surrounded by hundreds of butterflies like snow white, riding motorcycles all over the place, hiking 6 hrs through the mountains of northern Vietnam near China for a home cooked traditional lunch with the local tribal women, taking a vow of silence in a Buddhist monetary, learning a new language: Thai, seeing Angkor Wat, and so much more! My head cannot even wrap around everything!
The pedals of my life are unfolding allowing my inner beauty to shine. I feel elated and filled with joy. The most important lesson I can take with me is to listen to my life, follow my intuition, and to express love and compassion unconditionally. Smile often, and do the things you want to do with this precious life you've been given, because you never know when your time will expire.
To all of you who love me and have offered support, Thank you. I love you too.

Singapore

I thankfully departed Indonesia, and if I return there it will be too soon. One thing I can say is I do appreciate when people are obvious about there motives, which were commonly self-serving. When someone is kind and altruistic it make you appreciate being human and having a neo-cortex, and be reminded that there is still decency and love in a greedy technological world.
When someone offers their support and kindness it restores faith in humanity. What it also does it makes me want to be a better person consistently, and to operate from love and respect on a daily basis, because it's more necessary than I've ever seen, or noticed before. The younger generations have money on the mind, and in the experiences I've had I'm viewed as a walking ATM machine, not a person of interest or value. Just a means to an end to drive consumerism onward, and that makes me sad.
So, I feel as though it is imperative to smile often, and remain humble, treat people with respect, because life is a gift. Also, life is too short to attach to the impermanent world. That only creates suffering. Human to human contact is important, because it reminds us that we are all connected and equal.
Someone in my life that has been a beautiful example of positivity and genuine love is Mark. He has truly been a source of support and compassion over the last few years, but especially in the last few months, and I'm grateful to still have him in my life. I'm thankful for his presence in this world. Thank you, Mark. I look forward to seeing you after my return home. You are a very special person to me, and I love you.

After a grueling experience at the airport in Bali, I have arrived in Singapore. The cleanest country in the world, and maybe the most technologically advanced and well organized. I'm extremely impressed!!!! :)
Day 1: Today I enjoyed the user-friendly transportation system to meander through Chinatown. This city is pretty unbelievable because there are so many fascinating cultural avenues and historical sites to explore. Most of them are free too, which is amazing. This city can be as cheap or expensive as you're willing to make it, and the locals seem very intelligent and helpful. Observation: One thing I found amusing, and a little scary is all the rules in this city. If you step out of line by chewing gum, smoking outside a designated area, littering, loitering, vandalism, etc.. then there is either a hefty fine awaiting you, even 'caining,' or death by hanging. There are signs everywhere telling you to be on the lookout for suspicious behavior, and to call the police immediately if you notice something that seems unusual. This level of conformity frightens me, because it reminds me of Aldous Huxley's: 'Brave New World', but overall, this is a gorgeous city that I would love to spend more time appreciating.
I wandered through art galleries, Buddhist temples(learning more on Buddhism and listening to chanting from monks), visiting Indian mosques, parks, and Chinese alleyways full of sensual delights, i.e. food and fashion.
I have only 1 1/2 days more before I return to Thailand. OMG! How the time flies by! I'm trying not to think about it too much, so I can savor these precious moments. I met a guy from Africa named Bobby who I enjoyed political and economical conversations with over a beer, compliments of Fern Loft hostel. It was so interesting to learn about his African heritage.

Day 2: Today I awoke to receiving a wonderful email from my family and Mark, which made my whole day fabulous! :D I decided today to ship a box home to avoid ridiculous excess weight luggage costs that the airport shocked me with in Bali. A sweet elderly couple were more than helpful in giving me directions to the post office, and even waited until I crossed the street to wave goodbye to me. :) Then on the way to the post office with my bag of stuff, a sweet man and his family pulled over and offered me a ride to the post office, which I gratefully accepted. Now I feel lighter and stress free. I meandered through the famous Bugis district and enjoyed many different fruit drinks: COCONUT, WHEAT GRASS, AND CARROT! Yummmmmy! I walked all over, and talked to many kind people and saw many beautiful pieces of art. My faith in people has been renewed. It's like night and day compared to Indonesia. hahahahahaha! I don't think I stopped smiling today. Singaporeans are lovely people, and very well educated too. From the age of 2 they begin learning English, Malay, and Chinese. Incredible! I think our educational system has much to be desired. I found a new book today. My average reading now is a novel every 2 days. My brain is thirsty for knowledge, and continuing meditation to compliment that knowledge by cultivating wisdom and peace will only be a perfect balance for insight and harmony.
I can't believe I leave for Thailand tomorrow afternoon.

going going, back to back, to Bali Bali

So, 20 hrs., 1 train, 1 ferry, 1 bus, 1 bemo later, and I'm back in familiar Bali after navigating through chaotic Java. I arrived in Kuta this afternoon, and after a long cold shower I put on my black and red bikini and sauntered down to the beach. This town has the beach attraction flooded by Australians and surf enthusiasts. Kuta reminds me of Mission beach, San Diego, CA., with an Indonesian twist. The crowd is young and scantily clad. The locals have bleached out hair and adopted a bohemian/reggae-like vibe. I like the buzz here. It's relaxed. Kuta reminds me of Emily, and I miss my best friend.

Kuta is still trying to recover from the 2002 terrorist bombings, which is the deadliest act of terrorist in Indonesian history. The terrorists targeted a nightclub with 3 bombs in the happenin tourist area killing over 200 people. The memory of this event still haunts this city.
I recently learned that the terrorists responsible for the bombing will be executed this month.

I'll stay in Kuta my last remaining 4 days in Indonesia and use this place as my home base to explore the south a bit, or just relax on the beautiful beaches, swim, read my new book: Water for Elephants, and eat tropical fruit. :) I want to soak up this experience. This is also a convenient place to pause because it's only 20 mins from the airport. It's less than 2 weeks until I'm home again for 3 whole weeks to spend with my family and friends. :) Yay!
I have a feeling of peace and satisfaction coursing through me. I did it! With god on my side, I went half way around the world alone, functioned freely through foreign cultures with language barriers, and overcame many of my random anxieties and adversities. I wonder, what's to stop me from opening up my own business soon? Why not?

Yogyakarta

I have arrived in Java during the Muslim holiday of Ramadan, which lasts one month. The holiday consists of a 1 month fast from 4 am-sunset. No food, water, or cigarettes. This is a time to find peace within, to control the mind, and cleanse. There is a punishing heat that beats down on all living things here in Yogyakarta, and many people look and feel drained because of Ramadan and the heat, especially the bechak drivers who cycle people around in a covered cart in the heat with no food or water under the extreme sun all day long breathing in smog. I learned that the average life expectancy of an Indonesian male is 63, and a woman is 65. That isn't long. People run themselves and their animals into the ground. It is difficult for me to watch, but that is how life is out here. It is a hard life. The people fight to stay alive and provide for their families. I am humbled by the will power of the people in Indonesia. Truly.

Yesterday Soraya, Willie, and I walked to the Sultan's palace in the center of the city. We learned about the Sultan's family, rituals, and saw the layout of the palace. It was very cool. I've never been in such close proximity to a Sultan before. Also, this is the first Sultan who has chosen only one wife. He has 5 daughters, and when he dies his younger brother will become his successor.

In the afternoon, we organized a trip to the Prambhanan temple. It is one of the largest Hindu temples in the world, and has Buddhist influence. There are three main temples. One for Brahma, one for Vishnu, and one for Shiva. I thoroughly explored them all in awe. For they truly are glorious! They were completed in 900 a.d., and discovered by the Dutch in the 1800's. The Dutch unfortunately literally defaced this temple by severing the heads off some of the Buddha statues to sell back at home, but fortunately they redeemed themselves later by realizing the value of this temple, clearing away the rubbish, and creating a peace park to view and appreciate Prabhanan. On May 27th, 2006 an earthquake devastated Prabhanan temple, and damaged much of the Vishnu temple, which is the large central one, and it is currently under restoration. I had fun observing this temple from headstand, and afterwards we witnessed a beautiful sunset in the background of the temple that we enjoyed from the grass, we made our way next door to experience the Ramayana ballet with Pranbhanan in the background illuminated in gold light.
Ramayana Ballet is the Hindu story of Rama and Sita, which is the Hindu version of Romeo and Juliet. The Indonesian dancing, dressings, music, traditional costumes, and lighting portrayed a beautiful story brought to life by this talented cast. We were all impressed.

This morning at 5 a.m. we were picked up and driven through the misty rice fields at sunrise for 1 1/2 hrs until we reached the impressive and incredible Borobudur temple. It was also Hindu and Buddhist influence, but more Buddhist because of the hundreds of Buddha statues and stupas. It was built in the 9th century. There are 8 levels. The bottom 4 are square shaped levels with intricate and elaborate shallow reliefs scultpures depicting scenes from the Mhalabharta, i.e. the Upanishads. The disciples sitting at the foot of their guru learning about spirituality. As you rise through the levels the art becomes more simple, and the levels become round, adorned with only stupas and Buddha statues. This represents the soul rising through the human world towards enlightenment were everything is more simple, serene, and peaceful. In the distance you can see Merapi volcano which has almost destroyed this temple with intense earthquakes over time. This temple was also almost destroyed when Javanese terrorists exploded bombs nearby in Yogyakarta. This temple was once ransacked by the dutch and then forgotten. The earth protected it with its overgrowth until The Dutch Governor and explorer: Raffles rediscovered it, and cleared away the vines. Thank god this temple has stood against the test of time, because it truly is a spiritual and special place. When I sat at the top of the temple at the base of the large central stupa overlooking the massive Merapi volcano in the distance encircled by clouds, and accompanied by large mountains, I felt at peace and grateful to be able to have this experience.
Many people never will.

I am almost out of money, as I am in my 7th month of travel, but I would never trade any of my southeastern adventures for the impermanent comforts of the material world. I thank god everyday that I am here, and have seen and experiences the things that I have. Everyday that I awake I have been reborn. For all of you who have supported and loved me: Thank you.
For all of you who have believed in me: Thank you. I love you all, and I look forward to seeing you soon. However, I must warn you: I have changed. In my opinion for the better, because if I were to die tomorrow I would have no regrets. For I have lived my life with compete authenticity, and now my heart is wide open. I realize now that there is no reason to be anxious, because there is nothing to fear. If you are unhappy, create a change. Express yourself. LIVE!

Bromo Volcano on Java island

After an amazing 2 dives in Permatean and Menjangan island, Soraya, Willie, and I took the ferry to Java. The cost was cheap, but the weight I'm now carrying is daunting. However, we all managed. Once we arrived on Java we booked the local bus fare to take us to Promoloingo, so we could then take another bus up the mt. to Bromo. We did not anticipate the bus ride to last 8 hrs! Nor did we expect to be hassled, stared at, stuck in the back by the speakers(which is seretly unplugged to avoid being blasted by Indo pop music), or have to deal with the crowd of Muslim men chain smoking clove cigarettes on the bus, or the filthy pollution. It was an adventure to say the least. The bus flew down the road at what felt like 100 mph, and the entire back of the bus turned around to state at the 3 of us like we were a bunch of zoo animals. Random musicians would jump on board and sing, and then ask for donations. this happened over and over, some with an amp and mic. Over and over these men offered us cigarettes, and couldn't believe that were didn't smoke. How absurd! hahahah! They all wanted to shake our hands, and some tried to squeeze between us to sit close. Every one of those men I shooed away with my fan and told them to sit elsewhere out of instinct, and I'm glad for it, because two I saw trying to feel up under a 12 yr old girls skirt, and I slapped him on the arm with my wooden fan, and told him to stop. He did, and apologized.
We arrived at 8 p.m. and it was hot. Also, we were cranky and starving. We found a minivan going up the mt. towards Bromo, and crammed on. On a van which seats 8 comfortable, we squeezed 15. No joke. However, we arrived safely, and when we stepped off the van, the men who aided us with out luggage were wearing snow jackets, because the temperature dropped to 40 degrees f. It was ridiculously freezing! A shock. :O
I went to bed immediately under my blanket shivering, and the girls went for dinner.
We awoke at 3:30 a.m. and took a jeep to the base of Bromo volcano and hiked to the top of the lookout to watch the sunrise. It was cold, but so gorgeous. We warmed our sleepy bodies with ginseng coffee, and watched the sunrise. Once there was light, me, and the other crazy 30 tourists and locals could see the smoke billowing from the crater to the right. The sight was unforgettable, and so far my experience on Java was proving to be very eventful. We hiked down to meet the driver who took us to the base of the crater. We hiked for an hour to the rim, and with our gasping lungs took a nice inhalation of sulphuric smoke, while enjoying the beauty and drama of the landscape. I hiked to the highest point on the rim. Only a few other crazy should joined me. 1/2 later I saw Willie climbing up. We congratulated each other, hugged, and smiled while she took pictures. My camera isn't working.
Once we made it back down the mt. to our hotel to enjoy our pithy breakfast we took an 8 hr. van ride to Yogyakatra, which is the art capital of Indonesia. The ride was chaotic and entertaining. The landscape was beautiful. sigh
I'm tired. I'll rest here 3 days before returning to Bali. I leave soon, and that thought is making me anxious a little. I adore the life of the east, and returning to the western world is foreign.

bike gang

Soraya, David, Dodik(my Balinese friend), and I rented motorcycles and rode out to the hot springs and Gitgit waterfall. Dodik strapped me into the helmet and took me to Kalibikbuk to meet Soraya and David. Soraya and I rented motorbikes, and David rode on the back of Dodik's motorbike out of town towards the hotsprings. It was a blast! The 3 springs were sulfuric and healing. They are varied in temperature with giant stone dragon faces which poured water out of their mouths. The water streams from their mouths massaged my muscles and turned them into putty. :) In the giant pool I swam around like a frog, just because I could, but in the small pools my eyes fluttered shut and all my tention escaped my mind and body as I slipped into a meditation.
We ate chicken satay with peanut sauce, and drank tea. We all get along so well, and had a great time laughing it up in the springs.
On the way back through town we picked up Willie. She jumped on the back of my bike, and we were off again. This time towards Gitgit waterfall. We climbed our bikes up the roads through the jungle mountains and beat the storm. Once we arrived, we hiked down a series of steps for 15 mins. and approached a massive waterfall that filled the valley with mist. It was gorgeous! We took many goofy pictures, and then hiked back up, singing songs and laughing, and left. On the journey home we took back-roads, trying to avoid potholes, and wizzed through the jungle towards Anturan at sunset.
Tomorrow I leave and head west to dive for the last time, before I head south to surf.

living in Lovina loca

I took the Perama bus through the mountains of central Bali through cold fog, past monkeys walking on the side of the road, thick foliage, rice fields, women walking with giant baskets full of things on top their head, children running and playing, stinky motorcycles, and the workings of daily Balinese life with colorful batik sarongs blowing in the wind and incense filling my nostrils. The bus was stuffed full of people smiling and gazing out the windows experiencing the visual and kinesthetic beauty.
When I departed the bus, a young man approached me and said 50,000 for Gede's homestay. I looked at his card, and it said everything I was looking for. I said: 45,000 rupees($5), and it's a deal. He said ok. The homestay was clean, comfortable, and linked with a reggae bar. All the sons of Gede are in a raggae band, and the children are very musically inclined! :) They said: Tracy? Oh, like Tracy Chapman!" Everyone says that. :) Every morning they wake me up for breakfast by playing the guitar and singing Tracy Chapman songs, and I happily awake with a smile, do yoga, and make my way to the restaraunt for my fruit salad and warm Bali tea.
:) I love it.
I made a good friend: Willie. She's from the Netherlands, and we negotiated a fare yesterday by motorbike with our young homestay guides: Gecko and Doodi, to visit the cold, blessed, healing springs in the mountains outside Lovina. It was a blast! I made two friends there: Soraya(New Zealand) and David(England). We all went out last night and listened to cover band music by the talented locals. The night ended with a sing along on the beach and watching the sunrise.
Today I'll read me new cherished book: Papillon(the story of Henri Charriere's life and his prison breaks from Guiana). Today is a good day. Everyday is, because no day is the same, and it never will be again.

The hunt for Mola Mola

I awoke this morning early for my exotic fruit salad and pineapple pancake overlooking the sea, yoga, and packing before my dive. After getting my gear sorted at WaterWorx dive shop we headed out by boat to Nusa Penida on a hunt for sightings of the rare Mola Mola fish. This fish is unique to this region of the world, it is part of the plankton family or sunfish family, and has no tail fin, but a 12 ft. top to bottom fin span. It also weighs 1 ton. On the first dive in my thick full wet suit, I went down to 35m/105ft(roughly), and saw immediately a giant gray reef shark in the blue abyss, and a massive white tip shark, a 3 ft. puffer fish, and an amazing reef! Once I got of to the boat after 40 mins. I saw the Mola Mola's top fin sticking out of the surface of the water. Oh, how it teased us!
On the second dive the drift was too strong. We fought it from ripping us out into oblivion and gulped up our air rapidly, but I saw a 3 1/2 ft. puffer fish, and array of unique schools of fish I've never seen, a gold trumpet fish, and beautiful coral.
Once I returned the scuba staff and I went out for lunch, and then I found a cheap room, since I lost my old one due to premature checkout. I bought a bus ticket, and I leave for Lovina tomorrow, which is where I'll find more diving in the north island, trekking, hot and cold springs, and waterfalls, besides some r & r.
Today was a great day! :D I'm grateful.

leaving Ubud

After the challenging cycling tour through the rice fields, volcano, and jungle, I ended with a tour through Monkey forest. There are over 300 aggressive Macaques that live in this forest. 120 juveniles, 25 males, and the rest are all females. You can clearly see the territories outlines by the Alpha males. When I entered I brought a banana to give a lucky monkey, and I found a big outgoing male to give it to. I threw him the banana and he jumped up on the stone podium of the wall. His prehensile tale curled around the wall to steady himself while he peeled the banana. However, it got ugly when I took a picture of him, because the flash frightened the monkey, and he lunged towards me bearing all his teeth. I think I screamed and jumped back 10 ft. thinking he was going to jump on my face and bite my nose off! I was terrified, but I lived to tell the story! Thank you, God! :) I explored the dense jungle forest flooded with monkeys, and wandered through the jungle temples. The place was beautiful with it's streams, carved stone, draping trees, and Hindu shrines hidden in the foliage.
The next day Karen and I hired a private driver to take us to the temple on Agung volcano(the largest volcano on Bali). This was the day after an important religious holiday, but once we arrived we learned the ceremonies were still in session, and we were able to attend and witness a very unexpected sacred experience at Pura Basaikh temple. The men all dressed in white shirts with a matching hat with sarongs. The women all dressed to impress with flowers in their hair, elegant sarongs with matching belts, and see-through long sleeve shirts over a corset. There was Barung music which paraded up and down the steep steps weaving throughout the outdoor volcanic black-stone temple. The carvings were intricate. I was speechless, because this experience was magical and beautiful! :) I was humbled and felt blessed to be there. The women dressed me in traditional clothing and invited Karen and I in to observe.
After we left the temple our driver took us to Amed.
This morning in Amed I did my first wreck dive around and through an old WW2 ship that was shot down off the coast of Tulampen. The ship is called the USS Liberty. It was an incredible dive! The coral and marine life have taken over the old wreck, and made it into a spectacular site full of life and color from the depths of 3-25 m in the clear sea.
The 2nd dive was reef off shore dive where I saw more diverse coral and color than on any other dive in my life! I also saw my first Pygmy sea horse! I saw a maneray, 2 scorpion fish, a 3 ft. long squid, and so much more! OMG! It was amazing! What I also saw that blew my mind were the local women who carried the scuba tanks to and from the shore on top their heads!
Now I'm in Padang Bai where I will snorkel in the Blue Lagoon tomorrow and explore town, maybe set up a surf lesson, because I've always wanted to try surfing, and set up my dive to the Nusa islands to see the famous Mola Mola fish.
Indonesia is a unique and fascinating place. I can see that you need a lot of time here to learn the language and get to know the people intimately, as well as see all 14,000 island including the famous Komodo dragon island, and I feel fortunate to have 19 more days to spend here. I want to make all of them count!