Monday, September 15, 2008

Yogyakarta

I have arrived in Java during the Muslim holiday of Ramadan, which lasts one month. The holiday consists of a 1 month fast from 4 am-sunset. No food, water, or cigarettes. This is a time to find peace within, to control the mind, and cleanse. There is a punishing heat that beats down on all living things here in Yogyakarta, and many people look and feel drained because of Ramadan and the heat, especially the bechak drivers who cycle people around in a covered cart in the heat with no food or water under the extreme sun all day long breathing in smog. I learned that the average life expectancy of an Indonesian male is 63, and a woman is 65. That isn't long. People run themselves and their animals into the ground. It is difficult for me to watch, but that is how life is out here. It is a hard life. The people fight to stay alive and provide for their families. I am humbled by the will power of the people in Indonesia. Truly.

Yesterday Soraya, Willie, and I walked to the Sultan's palace in the center of the city. We learned about the Sultan's family, rituals, and saw the layout of the palace. It was very cool. I've never been in such close proximity to a Sultan before. Also, this is the first Sultan who has chosen only one wife. He has 5 daughters, and when he dies his younger brother will become his successor.

In the afternoon, we organized a trip to the Prambhanan temple. It is one of the largest Hindu temples in the world, and has Buddhist influence. There are three main temples. One for Brahma, one for Vishnu, and one for Shiva. I thoroughly explored them all in awe. For they truly are glorious! They were completed in 900 a.d., and discovered by the Dutch in the 1800's. The Dutch unfortunately literally defaced this temple by severing the heads off some of the Buddha statues to sell back at home, but fortunately they redeemed themselves later by realizing the value of this temple, clearing away the rubbish, and creating a peace park to view and appreciate Prabhanan. On May 27th, 2006 an earthquake devastated Prabhanan temple, and damaged much of the Vishnu temple, which is the large central one, and it is currently under restoration. I had fun observing this temple from headstand, and afterwards we witnessed a beautiful sunset in the background of the temple that we enjoyed from the grass, we made our way next door to experience the Ramayana ballet with Pranbhanan in the background illuminated in gold light.
Ramayana Ballet is the Hindu story of Rama and Sita, which is the Hindu version of Romeo and Juliet. The Indonesian dancing, dressings, music, traditional costumes, and lighting portrayed a beautiful story brought to life by this talented cast. We were all impressed.

This morning at 5 a.m. we were picked up and driven through the misty rice fields at sunrise for 1 1/2 hrs until we reached the impressive and incredible Borobudur temple. It was also Hindu and Buddhist influence, but more Buddhist because of the hundreds of Buddha statues and stupas. It was built in the 9th century. There are 8 levels. The bottom 4 are square shaped levels with intricate and elaborate shallow reliefs scultpures depicting scenes from the Mhalabharta, i.e. the Upanishads. The disciples sitting at the foot of their guru learning about spirituality. As you rise through the levels the art becomes more simple, and the levels become round, adorned with only stupas and Buddha statues. This represents the soul rising through the human world towards enlightenment were everything is more simple, serene, and peaceful. In the distance you can see Merapi volcano which has almost destroyed this temple with intense earthquakes over time. This temple was also almost destroyed when Javanese terrorists exploded bombs nearby in Yogyakarta. This temple was once ransacked by the dutch and then forgotten. The earth protected it with its overgrowth until The Dutch Governor and explorer: Raffles rediscovered it, and cleared away the vines. Thank god this temple has stood against the test of time, because it truly is a spiritual and special place. When I sat at the top of the temple at the base of the large central stupa overlooking the massive Merapi volcano in the distance encircled by clouds, and accompanied by large mountains, I felt at peace and grateful to be able to have this experience.
Many people never will.

I am almost out of money, as I am in my 7th month of travel, but I would never trade any of my southeastern adventures for the impermanent comforts of the material world. I thank god everyday that I am here, and have seen and experiences the things that I have. Everyday that I awake I have been reborn. For all of you who have supported and loved me: Thank you.
For all of you who have believed in me: Thank you. I love you all, and I look forward to seeing you soon. However, I must warn you: I have changed. In my opinion for the better, because if I were to die tomorrow I would have no regrets. For I have lived my life with compete authenticity, and now my heart is wide open. I realize now that there is no reason to be anxious, because there is nothing to fear. If you are unhappy, create a change. Express yourself. LIVE!

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